Im in the carb,,,,this screw at the top middle "next to the large phillips screw" That is my fuel/air screw? I thought they were covered up or something.. But anyway I pulled it to spray some carb cleaner in there,,and counted how many turns until it seated before I removed it and it was just about all the way in. Maybe a 1/8th of a turn before it seated,,that seems rather odd doesnt it?

Im not sure of the spec on this but from vids I seen most say it should be at least two full turns out and adjust from there,Or does this sound right?

 

For what it's worth since you have the carb apart I wouldn't just try to clean it but install a carb kit so you know everything is right. Not worth the effort to have to tear into one the second time if you continue to have carb problems. Yes I'd start at around 2 to 2 1/2 turns out from a lightly seated position on the fuel screw. This adjuster is mainly for idle and up to about 1/3 throttle response.If you have a carb adjuster tool or even a small screw driver you can adjust this screw to achieve a good idle after it's warmed up awhile.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Wolverine-450-YFM450FX-2007-2010-CARBURETOR-Carb-Rebuild-Kit-Repair-/200798093663?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec07fc15f&vxp=mtr

 

Well Im not sure what the exact problem was,but got the carb all done and back on,,Im running at around 2 turns out on the fuel mixture screw vs the 1/8th turn from before. Carb looked pretty clean,but I gave it a good cleaning anyway.

I looked at the filter again,,couldnt really see dirt but it felt pretty gunky,But I guess it should feel sticky and gunky from the oil,,but I did just wipe it off with a paper towel,,It doesnt feel so gunky now. I also notice like it didnt seal the greatest by the rubber Oring that goes to the box. There is a lil grease but looks like I can see a bit of a gap,so I played with it and moved it around to where it looks like its a good seal.

I started it up,warmed it up and sounded much more smooth,,I didnt get that slight crackle sound from before like after you revved it and it was coming back down "I think it was to lean before" It actually stayed running and didnt shut off on me,,so Im gonna call it fixed

I did find a near by dealership "Honda" All I seen was a K&N cleaning/oil kit and some separate power cleaning solvent made by no-toil I beleive and some spray on oil for filters. I didnt buy anything as I think im just going to order a new filter housing,,maybe my rubber is warped or something and I figure I'll just order that kit,this probably my best bet? https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...it-With-Grease
Also while im thinking of buying a new filter housing,,Is there any after market filter kit I should look at that might be better than stock? Or just get another stock foam and filter housing?

 

Air filters are like oil preference,every one swears by the one they use. Whether it's an oem filter,K&N,Uni,etc. Maintenance is the main factor to consider regardless of which one you choose. I've seen engine damage from neglected oem filters along with K&N in several Polaris machines. Never found one attributed to an Uni filter,usually if they get dirt encrusted enough they'll just stop running or run crappy from lack of air. Just my on this one.I always thought that Honda and Yamaha did the right thing by using oem foam filters in a lot of their machines to begin with.