I recently purchased a 2000 kodiac and absolutely love it. However on my last two outings I have experienced a slight problem. While motoring along level ground at an medium speed my kodiac acted like it ran out of gas. It did not completely shut down just lost power. The power came back and I continued on. I then started up a hill climb and it did it again. This time it stalled. I grabbed the brakes, restarted it and continued up the hill. I rode for probably another 2 hour and had no problem. On the next ride I stopped to relieve myself and shut the machine off. I restarted it and when I went to take off it did the same thing again just for a few seconds then took off. After this time I rode for almost another 5 hours with no other problems. I just dropped it off at the dealer to have it checked out and will get back to you with their finding if they have any.
Machine is only about 2 months old.



2000 kodiac 26x12x12rear 26x9x12frt. Mud Sharks, superwinch mounted on top of front rack works great.

 

I had the same thing happen to myself a couple of times. Then it started to get worse.The atv quit running all together. Did you notice if you lost power as in electrical? My positive(red)wire from the battery to what i believe is the solenoid. I think the wire is broken, because when i check the connections to the battery which were tight, i moved this wire and i got power back. I am taking back to the dealer as soon as possiable

 

t1602,
I got my machine back from the dealer and they found nothing. I will try it again and I guess just keep an eye on it. I really don't know if it is electrical or not. The wierd thing is that it does'nt stall out. It just hessitates for a moment and then keeps going. I am going to keep a close eye on it to see what happens.

 

You may have vapor lock, this happens when your running a bit hot and the gas begins to boil before it reaches the carbeurator, making it seem like itsa running out of gas. All quads do this especially down here in florida, my 00 kodiak, and my warrior both vapor locked from time to time. open your gas tank and see if the gas is bubbling.

 

I had a similar problem with my new Kodiak. It started fine and idled fine but cut out with any throttle. I just got it back from the dealer and it had a clogged jet in the carb. The tech said sometimes new carbs have this problem if there is any garbage in it when it's first assembled. Otherwise, the filter will catch it. The carbs are manuf. in Maylasia. He said he's seen with with mosquitos, etc. in them when they're new...

 

Well Read This,
I read your posts about the 2000 Kodiak machines cutting off. I just couldn’t believe it. I was experiencing the same thing! Three times it happened to me. It just dies. No power indicated by the dash. It would not start. I was far from home each time. It never lasted long much to my LUCK! I would flip the key back and forth until I got something to light up and then it would start and go.
Well you folks may have what I did I hope. If so at least you can go to it and feel confident again.
I was in the process of installing a reverse light. My first step was to look for a wire that gets hot when reverse is selected. I have a Yamaha Shop Manual ($42.00) and glad of it. Money Well Spent. I pulled up the seat to look for a certain color wire that comes off the reverse switch solenoid. Well I needed better access so I removed the triangular wiring harness hold down and the screw that fastens the CDI to the side of the machine. Now I could move the wiring around and see the colors and pull the solenoid up as well and see its wires. To get the CDI to lift out you have to go under the fender and pry a clip a little bit. The Solenoid just lifts out.
While I was moving the wires, solenoid and CDI around with the key on and the machine in Reverse I noticed the reverse solenoid was clicking on and off. I looked at the dash and the light was doing it too. I put the machine in Park and it did the same. So I shook and pulled several wires duplicating this thing trying to isolate the wire. It narrowed down to the FUSE BOX.
With a little pry I lifted the box out and the solenoid was going crazy. Finally it came down to the Red with White striped wire going to one side of the 10 AMP fuse. Yes, the Ignition Fuse! Oh Boy I thought, I got a broken wire. I’m going in! With a sharp Ice Pick I pried the TINY plastic molded clip that holds the fuse receiver wire in place. The end of this wire has the Fuse pin receiver. When I got it out I put my meter in Ring mode and grounded one lead and clipped the other to the end of the wire in question. Well it indicated (Ringing) all was well. I wiggled, pulled and twisted and the connection would not break. Hmmmm? So I went after the Brown wire on the other side of the fuse. I did not remove it. I just put my lead on it and shook. No problems. Well I decided to see how the fuse fit in the receiver at the end of the Red & White wire. It was LOOSE. VERY LOOSE. When I removed the wire I did not have any trouble. I did not distort it at all so I knew I had it. I squeezed it and reinstalled it. It is GONE.
DAMN! All you guys have to do is open your fuse box and pry the fuse receiver to get tighter! To test to see if you have the same problem. Turn your key on and put the machine in reverse. Tap, shake, push, pull and wiggle the fuse box and the wires going to it. If your reverse solenoid (RED) clicks on and off you have it. Shake every thing. Good Luck.

therock

 

I had the same problem with it quiting. It always happened after I was at low speed and just cruising through the desert. The fan never came on so vapor lock due to temp was no problem. I went into the carb and dropped the needle (raised the clip) one notch. Everything is now okay

 

great post. I don't have a kodiak,but it sounds like you just saved some people alot of grief.