hot cams
#3
hot cams
The biggest difference in the cams are that the Stage 1 and 2 are real, 3 isn't. :-)) Stage 1 is more of an aggressive trail cam, it gives you good gains all threw the rpm range, where as the Stage 2 is biased more toward top end performance. The Stage 1 cams are usually better with a std bore too. The bigger bores need more cam to realize the added displacement that you have, if it adds close to 20cc or more to a single cylinder engine, it's time for the 2nd Stage. If you decide to install a Stage 2 on a std bore machine, added compression is the next logical step, that will help bring back some of the lost bottom end that a more aggressive cam tends to take away.
Tony
Tony
#5
hot cams
Gary,
I'm not sure yet, we haven't worn one out. It may be a while before we find out too. If you sit and think about it, the Stage 1 should have more life than the Stage 2, simply because of the pressure on the lobes, both in terms of ramp speeds and spring pressure. We have several Raptors that we are monitoring and none have exhibited any wear yet. These units are over a year old at this point and get used quite frequently, the one has nearly 400 hours on it, and he doesn't take very good care of it either. I feel, anyway. He should change the oil more often for sure. So, I really can't answer your question accurately. Yet. We could figure it out in theory but with these guys, I think you can throw theory out the window.
Tony
I'm not sure yet, we haven't worn one out. It may be a while before we find out too. If you sit and think about it, the Stage 1 should have more life than the Stage 2, simply because of the pressure on the lobes, both in terms of ramp speeds and spring pressure. We have several Raptors that we are monitoring and none have exhibited any wear yet. These units are over a year old at this point and get used quite frequently, the one has nearly 400 hours on it, and he doesn't take very good care of it either. I feel, anyway. He should change the oil more often for sure. So, I really can't answer your question accurately. Yet. We could figure it out in theory but with these guys, I think you can throw theory out the window.
Tony
#6
#7
hot cams
got a queastion for you Tony.
My brother recently had a 440 kit installed in his Honda 400ex. The bike runs better than stock ofcourse but the cams, rocker arm, Area, makes alot of noise. I asked the shop that did the installation why, and they said they used Hot cams(stage one) and they just do that, Not to worry. Well, I am worried, I just don't think that his Honda otta sound like a Diesel.
Can you give me any answers to what I should check on his Over-head??? I don't think that I can get anywhere with this shop. I have never opened up a honda top-end but I am sum what able to do what you ask.
Biggerisbetter.
My brother recently had a 440 kit installed in his Honda 400ex. The bike runs better than stock ofcourse but the cams, rocker arm, Area, makes alot of noise. I asked the shop that did the installation why, and they said they used Hot cams(stage one) and they just do that, Not to worry. Well, I am worried, I just don't think that his Honda otta sound like a Diesel.
Can you give me any answers to what I should check on his Over-head??? I don't think that I can get anywhere with this shop. I have never opened up a honda top-end but I am sum what able to do what you ask.
Biggerisbetter.
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#8
hot cams
The profile of the cam lobes generate higher ramp speeds with ANY higher performance aftermarket cam. These speeds generate more pressure, which means more heat, heat causes expansion of metal, the expansion of valve train metal closes operational gaps up in the engine. What that means is, you need to have more gap between the rocker arm adjuster and valve, once the engine is warm, that gap closes up. If the gap is too small, you'll burn a valve when the valve doesn't close all the way.
For the average trail rider, it's possible to close the gap down some, say .001" on both the exhaust and intake, which will quiet the noise some. If you are going to run the machine hard (who wouldn't with a cam and 440cc big bore in place?!!), you need to have the gaps we suggest in the Spec Sheets that come with the cam. The real problem comes when you start running the gaps the same as the std cam had them.
All higher-than-stock-performance cams will generate more noise simply because of the way the valves are opened and closed. Running looser-than-stock valve clearances makes even more noise.
And Biggerisbetter, if that thing sounds like a diesel, you better check your fuel. ;-)) In all seriousness though, it will make more noise, no getting away from it either. Air cooled engines make it sound much worse than it is too. The engine fins have a tendency to exacerbate the sound into something other than what it really is. Which is a faint ticking sound in a liquid cooled engine. If your dealer didn't get the valves set correctly, that won't help either.
Tony
For the average trail rider, it's possible to close the gap down some, say .001" on both the exhaust and intake, which will quiet the noise some. If you are going to run the machine hard (who wouldn't with a cam and 440cc big bore in place?!!), you need to have the gaps we suggest in the Spec Sheets that come with the cam. The real problem comes when you start running the gaps the same as the std cam had them.
All higher-than-stock-performance cams will generate more noise simply because of the way the valves are opened and closed. Running looser-than-stock valve clearances makes even more noise.
And Biggerisbetter, if that thing sounds like a diesel, you better check your fuel. ;-)) In all seriousness though, it will make more noise, no getting away from it either. Air cooled engines make it sound much worse than it is too. The engine fins have a tendency to exacerbate the sound into something other than what it really is. Which is a faint ticking sound in a liquid cooled engine. If your dealer didn't get the valves set correctly, that won't help either.
Tony
#10