the reason for having more fuel (the mix screw out a little more) on the rear brake side carb is because that carb feeds 2 valves and the other one feeds 1 valve due to the 3 intake valves. The same reason the jet size is always bigger on the brake side.

 

Plus it is only a single cylinder, If it was a 2 cylinder they would have to be the same on both sides, but since it all ends up in one cylinder, it kinda like fine tuning a little more precise I guess you could say. They don't have to be tuned identically.

 

What result do you achieve then?

Will this eliminate that small hesitation when I go from just above idle to full throttle?

If this threory is true, why are the needles in the same position?

 

because the jet feeding the 2 valves is bigger ex. - 165 vs 160

 

The way you should do this is to:
Cruise along in 3rd gear at lower RPMs, let off the trottle to almost idle then give it half throttle. If you get a hesitation there try turning you mix. screws out, if it's still there you need to raise your needles.
Now do the same thing going from half throttle to full throttle. If you have a hesitation there you need to raise your needles or go up on the mains.
Now after typing all this it is not uncommon for a CV carb to have a little hesitation going from near idle to full trottle. There is a little lag especially with no accelerator pump.

 

How can you get to the mixture screws without taking the plastic and carbs off?

 

Same with the needles. Do you have to take the plastic, tank, etc. off to get to the needles?

When you say raise the needles, do you mean lower the clip making the clip closer to the bottom of the needle?

 

Yes raise the needle by lowering the clip. You have to take the tank off to remove the needles.

 

Well I installed my GYTR kit and took out all the dyno junks. I put in the 155/160 mains, 2 left and 3 right out on the fuel screws, 25 pilots, gytr needles in 3rd clip. I also had the EHS lid installed and the full yosh. I got it out and in was cutting out all over the powerband. I made one lap and stopped and took the lid all the way off like I used to run it and it ran awsome to my relief. It made a big difference from the dynojet kit, felt alot stronger in the mid to upper rpms. I did a wide open run to check the plug and couldn't really tell if it was lean or not, with the dynojet kit it always looked rich. Now it was a grey color, not tan but not white, just in between. I think I am gonna try to go to the 160/165 mains klike the directions say for no lid.. What are you guys running with no lid totally as far as the turns out on the fuel screws?? It seemed like when putting around very slowly there is a little hesitation here and there down low. but when riding fast it feels better then ever. I also had a problem when going up steep hills or riding wheelies, it would start to die out like it was flooding, I thought it was the dynojets or the floats were out of adjustment, but it quit after the gytr jets. It was definatley worth it to get rid of the dynojet kit, now I just need to fine tune the new jetting. I figured I am just gonna keep running with no lid at all and let the EHS cover sit for now, any tips on no lid, foam proflow, full yosh, and gytr jet kit? Like I said mostly wondering about the fuel screws, seems like fine tuning that and the next size up on the mains and I should be dead on finally!

 

160/165
2 1/2 L 2 3/4 R
3rd groove

I can't beleive the EHS lid was that restrictive. Was your snorkle removed or modded?