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This engine has no filter, but does have a rather effective centrifugal oil cleaner. The centrifuge should be cleaned periodically, probably best done by the dealer.
Actually, what the owners manual says is to put in 0.7 quarts, start the engine for several minutes, then check the level and top up if necessary. The level is actually listed as 1 full quartt in the specifications page, but my experience has been that it actually takes something less than a full quart, but more than 0.7..
Thanks for the info on the capacity. Do I check the dipstick "without it screwed in" ?
I have a rancher ES and that's what it says in the book... not sure if I should thread the dipstick in on the trx90 or not before I look at the dipstick?
I will definitely need to buy a book for our 2004 trx90. I changed the oil tonight but wanted to see if anybody knew before I topped it off.
It's a good thing for this forum, the guy at the honda parts counter told me that I would need 5 quarts between the rancher and the trx90! He also said he had only gallons of the GN4 in stock and he would sell me a quart of Kawasaki oil (which he said is the same thing)... I declined and opted for another gallon of the honda GN4, that should have been a sign that he was full of it.
Anyway, my rancher book said 2.1 gallons when changing the oil and as you said .7 for the trx90, I got a quart to spare from the 1st gallon.
The owners manual for the 06 TRX90 states to check the oil level without screwing the dip stick in.
The capacity is approximate and always check the oil level after starting it and letting it idle a minute or so.
Main thing on the 90 since there is no oil filter as such.....just the strainer....is to do frequent oil changes.
Hope this helps.
Also I might add, a good oil for the 90 is Shell Rotella T in either dino or synthetic if you don't want to pay the price for the Honda oil. On the first oil change on the 90, I went with the Shell Rotella T regular oil and then went to their synthetic before going to the Amsoil.
You want to pick a motorcycle specific oil that is API SG/JASO MA. Rotella is none of those things! While Rotella has a better add pack (high pressure additives to protect your meshing gears) than most car oils, it just isn't formulated to lube an integrated transmission.
Personally, in everything, I run Maxima Extra which is an ester synthetic and absolutely the best oil I have ever found, but it is relatively expensive. If you want to go cheaper, I would recommend Maxima Premium (an inexpensive basic petroleum oil). Maxima has the best add pack in the business! http://www.maximausa.com/
My second choice would be Mobil 1 MX4T. Here again, you want the motorcycle formulation that is API SG/JASO MA, and NOT one of their car oils which are not formulated for a motorcycle transmission.
Honda GN4 (a cheap basic petroleum oil) was OK back in the day, but recently they went API SJ, a downgrade in the add pack from SG. They no doubt did this to keep the cost down, and remain competitive in terms of price, with other oils. I personally would not run it, when there is better stuff out there.
Shell Rotella oils are heavy duty engine oils and work great in shared sump engines. Also check the forums at bobistheoilguy.com. You will get many different answers but they will tell you for an oil that's readily avaialble anywhere, Shell is one and it's ecomical....even their synthetic.
But use whatever oil you want litegide.....just change it often.