So....i'm having problems installing a new rear drive chain. i have the manual and have followed it through and through numerous times and i can't seem to get my master link to line up. it seems that i'm about 1/4 short. Im super frustrated and no longer have any patience. can somebody please help!!!!???


any info appreciated

 

Takes a 76 link chain. If it's cut too short,could be your problem. Plus to loosen the rear carrier use a large enough wrench or pipe wrench to pull the carrier rearward after loosening the two bolts and also one bolt on the rear brake support. Hook the master link up,turn the carrier forward to tighten the chain. Have about 3/8"-1/2" slack in the middle of the chain,then tighten the bolts. Check after riding as new chains will stretch.Dirt Cheap Yamaha & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

it is a 76 link chain. it's same as the old one. i've got those bolts loose, and i've even got the 5/16 pin in and i'm not seeming to get anymore slack. is there something specific i need to rotate/turn? right now, i'm just trying to roll the bike forward/back and nothing seems to be moving to make a difference.

and like i said...i've followed the manual for chain adjustment and i'm just getting nowhere fast!

thanks

 

The entire aluminum axle housing has to rotate. It might be tight because of crud built up, but it should rotate somewhat freely when everything is loose.

 

so with this 5/16 pin in place, this should rotate the whole thing along with the axle? are there any other nuts/bolts that i have to loosen up? i've done everything i could find in the manual in chapter 3 about adjustment, page 76. chapter 13 explained nothing about adjustment...just install, but that's when the chain actually fits (page 334).

 

i also just sheared my pin off, in which i'm using a 5/16 bolt. and that alone took me :30 min to get out. so should this thing be this hard to rotate?

 

Videos on the Scrambler 400 but same as yours. Hate to see pipe wrenches on them,but if you can't budge with the pin,some do this. Special wrench for this,but most people don't have one. You can try jerking,fast movements with the pin through the sprocket into the eccentric carrier to see if you can break it loose.Go the opposite way to loosen.

 

alright, that video was the ticket.....why the hell don't they explain that **** in the manual!!!!! i had a crescent wrench big enough for that. now...i'm having an issue with the master link. not the c-clip part, but the link plate. it's not going on at all. i've measured the hole diameters, post diameters and the distances between with a calipers and according to the calipers, the numbers should work, but it seems like it's almost a press fit or more. i can't even get the plate piece on with a vice and channel lock together on each side? it's probly operator error, or maybe i just rolled a burr into the holes somehow.

 

ok, thank you for the help. i just got it. i took a reamer and reamed the holes to the original size....than it still didn't fit, so i just stepped up the reamer by .001 at a time until i got the clip to go. it's still a good fight. no slop

again....thanks

 

The o ring master link is almost a press fit.You really need to clamp the center of the master link together with either the pliers made for this or ground down vice grips. This compresses the plates, o-rings together enough to get the clip on. Just keep an eye on it.