i put 2 new starters on my gio 110 cc and i start the bike for the kids then after they shut it off the starter is burnt up thanks

 

one problem i had with the chinese starters burning up was that the key switch would not release the starter mode and return to the "on" position. it actually kept the starter turning over while the engine was running. ONLY I couldn't hear the starter because of the running engine. you may check out the key/starter button for proper operation.

 

welll when i tried it i push the the button then let it go the starter you stop turning and thow does the bottom gear stop spinning is there and chance that is not releaseing and how would you check that?

 

i suppose you could pull the starter and see if the bendix is working properly when energized with jumper cables or if you can leave the wiring connected.

 

I'm not sure I am completely understanding your last post. Are you asking how the starter gets mechanically disconnected from the engine once it starts? Your quad has a starter clutch on the lower gear. It is one way sprag clutch that locks up when the engine is spinning slower than the starter moter (allowing the starter to drive the engine). When the engine starts it will run faster than the starter motor. The starter clutch overruns (disengages) - disconnecting the starter from the engine. If the starter motor stayed connected to the engine it would spin up to tremendous speeds and fly apart at high engine RPM. Google "sprag clutch" for details on how this works.

Are you really sure the starter motors are "burnt up"? Or maybe you are having other problems that make you think the starters are burnt up. Take a set of jumper cables and a suspect starter motor (I'm assuming it will be completely out of the engine and sitting free). Using your jumper cables connect the frame of the starter to the minus post on your *car* battery. Connect the starter motor input terminal to your car battery plus terminal. Does the starter spin? By using your car battery all issues involving defective quad batteries and quad battery wiring are eliminated. If your starter spins it is most likely good.

If your starter motor doesn't spin with the jumper cables then take your defective starter motor apart. What do you see? Is it burnt inside (aka Jaster94's theory that it was spinning under battery power continuously even though the engine was started)? Do you see problems around the brush area (corrosion, brokem brush wires, worn brushes, etc)? Do you see mangled wires? Bad bearings? What you are doing is being a detective looking for forensic evidence as to why the starter failed. Clues lead to answers.

 

i just replaced the starter today and i started the bike with booster cables cause the battery is no good and when i did a test with the gas off the starter spun and stopped when i released the start button so how would it stay engaged when the engine is running. the last starter was hot when i took it off took it apart brushs were fine a wire was stuck between Armature and the caseing. so my question is could the sprag clutch be stuck on and not releaseing the kids were just putting around the yard for maybe ten mins the my kid hit the kill switch and i went out to boost it again.and it just clickedand starter was hot again. anoter question how would the starter stay engaged if the brake handle safety switch is not applied thanks in advance

 

Something else is wrong. Either the starter motor is staying engaged which you should be able to here it whining, or your starter solenoid is bad and is frying the starter.

Lynn, is there an Amp test for a starter?

The new starters come with the new clutch/sprag gear. Don't they? So, I find it hard to believe a new starter would not disengage.

There shouldn't be anything stuck between the armature and the casing. You may of gotten a second defective starter. I would try to warranty the newer starter and also change out the solenoid. Then make sure the wires are not grounding anywhere.

It is normal for the starters to get hot. But they should cool quickly(few minutes) and then be able to start again. If you crank a lot, they can heat up and kill the battery. If you are jumping from a car battery you might be supplying too much power.(in amps) Check with Lynn if this may matter or not?

Also, make sure you are not cranking in gear. This puts more pressure on the starter. Make sure you are in Nuetral or that the clutch is engaged. The motor needs to turn quickly when starting with minimal stress to the small starters. I have several quads that will start in gear because the safety switches are in the brakes circuit.

 

Your symptoms don't add up. You have to jump your quad to get it started. Then you disconnect the jumper cables and off you go. Then later your starter is bad. And what would cause your starter to go bad? This is the conundrum.

Your claim your starter was overly hot. It takes lot to make a starter hot - like cranking the starter for minutes on end from a charged battery. Yet your starter got overly hot on a running quad with a bad battery that is dead and can't put out. Your stator can only put out a couple amps. Not enough to burn up a starter.

Are you sure you starter wasn't hot just because it was bolted to a hot engine? I have to ask these questions... .

I've never heard of a starter clutch failing in a locked position. Looking at how these are made I can't envision any way for this to occur. Most starter clutches fail in the opposite "disconnect" mode where the starter turns but the engine does not.

You didn't report any "burn" conditions in your last starter motor autopsy. A wire sandwiched between the armature and stator is probably a manufacturing defect. A defective starter motor with a pinched wire as per the above will draw a lot of current, and could get really hot - but only while jumped to a good battery with the start button pushed. It would not continue to get hot in the same degree as the quad is running about the countryside.

I think Mr.Firemouth and I are on the same wavelength in that something else is wrong.

 

It isn't really easy to measure starter current directly (because it it more than the 10 amp DC maximum scale on most meters). There is equipment availble to do this but it isn't practical to the lay person. You could insert a known length of a known gauge copper wire in series with the starter and measure the voltage drop across the wire while cranking. Voltage = Current times Resistance. The voltage is the voltage dropped across inserted wire, the resistance per length comes from look up tables on the internet. This is used to calculate current. This was my method. 10 feet of 10 gauge wire, and a voltmeter and calculator.

Total agreement here.

Let's use an analogy: Take your fancy big screen HDTV television. Unplug it from your 15 amp outlet and plug it into a 30 amp outlet. Both are 115 volts AC, but one can provide more current (amps) than the other.

So now would your TV get more channels? Brighter picture? Better content? Of course it wouldn't . Your TV would work exactly the same. You provide the proper voltage and the TV draws whatever the proper current is (in amps), and work like it is supposed to.

12 volts is 12 volts. The 12 volts could come from a quad battery, or a bulldozer battery. Whatever load is put on the 12 volts, it will draw whatever the load needs, as long as the battery can keep up with the load requirements. The reason for jumping a quad to a car is to see if the quad battery *cannot* keep up. If jumping to a car battery fixes the problem this is a major clue.