Buyang pinouts needed
#1
09-06-2011, 06:30 PM
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Buyang pinouts needed
Hello all!
I recently picked up a 2007 Buyang ATV (model unknown) with a Zongshen FA-D250A motor. It's a total basket case, having had all its wires hacked and spliced to hell before I ever layed eyes on it, and (of course) not running.
I've already got the starter solenoid working and the motor cranks over fine. My goal now is to rewire the thing so it has spark, stator output in a known place, and a working kill switch. I'm hoping someone can point me towards the needed pinouts or a schematic.
The motor harness has five wires: red/black, green/white, blue/white, red, and yellow. The CDI has two connectors: one has two wires (black, black/white); the other has three (green, blue/white, black/yellow).
Can anyone help me identify these wires? I've Googled every which way, but so far have found nothing.
TIA,
--Keith
I recently picked up a 2007 Buyang ATV (model unknown) with a Zongshen FA-D250A motor. It's a total basket case, having had all its wires hacked and spliced to hell before I ever layed eyes on it, and (of course) not running.
I've already got the starter solenoid working and the motor cranks over fine. My goal now is to rewire the thing so it has spark, stator output in a known place, and a working kill switch. I'm hoping someone can point me towards the needed pinouts or a schematic.
The motor harness has five wires: red/black, green/white, blue/white, red, and yellow. The CDI has two connectors: one has two wires (black, black/white); the other has three (green, blue/white, black/yellow).
Can anyone help me identify these wires? I've Googled every which way, but so far have found nothing.
TIA,
--Keith
#2
09-07-2011, 12:37 AM
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I have some buyang wiring diagrams, but none seem to match the wiring colors you specified.
In your list of goals I would also add the requirement that the charging system works and keeps your battery charged up. But that is later in the list. If it were me I would go in this order:
1) Get the starter turning (you've already got this far...
)
2) Measure the compression. There is no sense rewiring a quad that is not going to run anyway because the whole engine is shot.
3) Get spark.
4) Get the quad started (solving any fuel issues as required)
5) Get the quad charging system working.
6) Solve any ancillary problems such as headlights, horn, etc.
Rewiring a quad is a big job. Fixing a hacked harness is usually far less work unless it is *really* messed up.
I don't know how bad your wiring harness is. I'm OK with helping you wire it from scratch as long as you are up to it. But so far *no one* has successfully completed this process. Many have started, but they seem to fade away during the process. It's a lot of work, but perhaps you'll be the first...
Again, fixing the old harness is usually a much easier prospect.
To get started, at the motor harness, measure the resistance (in ohms) of all the wires to ground. What are the resistances of each wire to engine ground (5 each)?
Also, what is the resistance (in ohms) of the red wire to the yellow wire?
In your list of goals I would also add the requirement that the charging system works and keeps your battery charged up. But that is later in the list. If it were me I would go in this order:
1) Get the starter turning (you've already got this far...
)2) Measure the compression. There is no sense rewiring a quad that is not going to run anyway because the whole engine is shot.
3) Get spark.
4) Get the quad started (solving any fuel issues as required)
5) Get the quad charging system working.
6) Solve any ancillary problems such as headlights, horn, etc.
Rewiring a quad is a big job. Fixing a hacked harness is usually far less work unless it is *really* messed up.
I don't know how bad your wiring harness is. I'm OK with helping you wire it from scratch as long as you are up to it. But so far *no one* has successfully completed this process. Many have started, but they seem to fade away during the process. It's a lot of work, but perhaps you'll be the first...
Again, fixing the old harness is usually a much easier prospect.
To get started, at the motor harness, measure the resistance (in ohms) of all the wires to ground. What are the resistances of each wire to engine ground (5 each)?
Also, what is the resistance (in ohms) of the red wire to the yellow wire?
#3
09-07-2011, 10:23 AM
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I actually got it (mostly) figured out last night. The big breakthrough came when I ripped apart the flywheel side of the motor and was able to trace the wires back to where they connect to the stator and magneto.
I'm not really well-versed in these things, so I'll try to describe the motor pinout as best I can.
The red wire and the yellow wire came from the windings on the stator. These will need to be hooked to a rectifier/voltage regulator once I obtain one (the original is absent).
The green/white wire was a ground. I grounded it to the block with my other grounds.
The blue/white wire came from the pulse generator magneto (for lack of better term), and the black/red wire came from the body of the magneto.
Having extracted the original connectors for the CDI from the rat's nest, I determined that the black/red wire needed to be connected to the lower pin of the 2-pin connector on the CDI. The upper pin is what you short to ground for a kill switch.
Then I located the 4-pin connector for the CDI. Turns out only three pins are used. Upper left is pulse from the magneto (blue/white), upper right is coil output, and lower right is a ground.
At this point I now have spark, and the motor will run. So now, as you said, I still need to get the battery charging and accessories working (more tedious than difficult) I also have carb problems to resolve, and a seat to recover.
If anyone can recommend a proper voltage regulator/rectifier I'd appreciate it.
--Keith
I'm not really well-versed in these things, so I'll try to describe the motor pinout as best I can.
The red wire and the yellow wire came from the windings on the stator. These will need to be hooked to a rectifier/voltage regulator once I obtain one (the original is absent).
The green/white wire was a ground. I grounded it to the block with my other grounds.
The blue/white wire came from the pulse generator magneto (for lack of better term), and the black/red wire came from the body of the magneto.
Having extracted the original connectors for the CDI from the rat's nest, I determined that the black/red wire needed to be connected to the lower pin of the 2-pin connector on the CDI. The upper pin is what you short to ground for a kill switch.
Then I located the 4-pin connector for the CDI. Turns out only three pins are used. Upper left is pulse from the magneto (blue/white), upper right is coil output, and lower right is a ground.
At this point I now have spark, and the motor will run. So now, as you said, I still need to get the battery charging and accessories working (more tedious than difficult) I also have carb problems to resolve, and a seat to recover.
If anyone can recommend a proper voltage regulator/rectifier I'd appreciate it.
--Keith
#4
09-07-2011, 11:26 PM
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My comments embedded in blue...
On the yellow and red wires: It looks like you have a one phase charging system which needs a GY6 style rectifier regulator. Do you have an auto choke (bystarter valve)? Do you have a liquid cooled engine that has fans to run? Sometimes these are run off an auxillary output(s) from the regulator. This will help determine if you need a four, five, or six pin regulator.
Just for absolute certainty, unplug the red and yellow wires from the wiring harness at the wires entering the engine cover (and on to the stator), and measure the resistance of the red and yellow wires to engine ground. It should be open.
I actually got it (mostly) figured out last night. The big breakthrough came when I ripped apart the flywheel side of the motor and was able to trace the wires back to where they connect to the stator and magneto.
I'm not really well-versed in these things, so I'll try to describe the motor pinout as best I can.
The red wire and the yellow wire came from the windings on the stator. These will need to be hooked to a rectifier/voltage regulator once I obtain one (the original is absent). [I'll address this at the end of this post...]
The green/white wire was a ground. I grounded it to the block with my other grounds. [As I suspected]
The blue/white wire came from the pulse generator magneto (for lack of better term), and the black/red wire came from the body of the magneto.
Having extracted the original connectors for the CDI from the rat's nest, I determined that the black/red wire needed to be connected to the lower pin of the 2-pin connector on the CDI. The upper pin is what you short to ground for a kill switch. [Correct on both counts...]
Then I located the 4-pin connector for the CDI. Turns out only three pins are used. Upper left is pulse from the magneto (blue/white), upper right is coil output, and lower right is a ground. [All correct.]
At this point I now have spark, and the motor will run. So now, as you said, I still need to get the battery charging and accessories working (more tedious than difficult) I also have carb problems to resolve, and a seat to recover.
If anyone can recommend a proper voltage regulator/rectifier I'd appreciate it.
--Keith
I'm not really well-versed in these things, so I'll try to describe the motor pinout as best I can.
The red wire and the yellow wire came from the windings on the stator. These will need to be hooked to a rectifier/voltage regulator once I obtain one (the original is absent). [I'll address this at the end of this post...]
The green/white wire was a ground. I grounded it to the block with my other grounds. [As I suspected]
The blue/white wire came from the pulse generator magneto (for lack of better term), and the black/red wire came from the body of the magneto.
Having extracted the original connectors for the CDI from the rat's nest, I determined that the black/red wire needed to be connected to the lower pin of the 2-pin connector on the CDI. The upper pin is what you short to ground for a kill switch. [Correct on both counts...]
Then I located the 4-pin connector for the CDI. Turns out only three pins are used. Upper left is pulse from the magneto (blue/white), upper right is coil output, and lower right is a ground. [All correct.]
At this point I now have spark, and the motor will run. So now, as you said, I still need to get the battery charging and accessories working (more tedious than difficult) I also have carb problems to resolve, and a seat to recover.
If anyone can recommend a proper voltage regulator/rectifier I'd appreciate it.
--Keith
Just for absolute certainty, unplug the red and yellow wires from the wiring harness at the wires entering the engine cover (and on to the stator), and measure the resistance of the red and yellow wires to engine ground. It should be open.
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