Linhai ATV grinding gears
#2
#3
Linhai grinding gears
Mine is the automatic as well, having a shifter for low and high range and reverse. I just purchased this ATV at an estate auction. It looks very well taken care of but I am trying to work out a couple issues. I have to give it just a little throttle when starting and it fires up instantly when I do so. It will not start without a little throttle. It idles a little slow though and is bad to go dead when I engage the transmission so slowing the idle down isn't an option at this point. The ATV has regular unleaded in it though while the fuel cap says to use 90 octane. I am wondering if draining the tank (gas that was bought six months ago) and refilling with premium might help the idle better to the point that I can slow the idle a little and maybe help the gear grinding when I engage the tranny.
#4
LinHai
I have15 Linhai 260 engines to play with so I miht know what you mean. Although mine are in GS Moon buggys they are the same as the ATV.
gear change adjustment is by cable tension, the forward gear is held in by a spring and reverse is selected by pulling the cable against that spring which in turn moves the selector fork. simple, no, it is a bugger to get right and if you don't it can grind a lot, (cable too slack) or 'jump' in forward, (too tight). Moving the lever to reverse (or back to forward) should be firm and slow but NEVER blip the gas as it can crash into gear and break the diff'. There is a switch on the gas and gear shift, if both are activated at the same time as when the lever is between F and R the motor SHOULD cut out to avoid revving in natural and crashing the box.
Tick over (or idle) should just be enough to avoid stalling and should be done when warm as the auto choke alters the engine speed for the first couple of minuets. Not too fast so the clutch starts to grip though.
The clutch should not engage prematurely as it is a centrifugal unit so if it does at lower revs then you may have a broken shoe spring, (there are three). A 46mm spanner and a good grip is all that's needed to fix in a new one.
Here in Europe we have 95 or 98 unleaded, take it or push it home. 90 is a bit low but they run on crap fuel just fine, unleaded is fine as they have harden valve seats etc for it.
Hope that helps.
Peter
gear change adjustment is by cable tension, the forward gear is held in by a spring and reverse is selected by pulling the cable against that spring which in turn moves the selector fork. simple, no, it is a bugger to get right and if you don't it can grind a lot, (cable too slack) or 'jump' in forward, (too tight). Moving the lever to reverse (or back to forward) should be firm and slow but NEVER blip the gas as it can crash into gear and break the diff'. There is a switch on the gas and gear shift, if both are activated at the same time as when the lever is between F and R the motor SHOULD cut out to avoid revving in natural and crashing the box.
Tick over (or idle) should just be enough to avoid stalling and should be done when warm as the auto choke alters the engine speed for the first couple of minuets. Not too fast so the clutch starts to grip though.
The clutch should not engage prematurely as it is a centrifugal unit so if it does at lower revs then you may have a broken shoe spring, (there are three). A 46mm spanner and a good grip is all that's needed to fix in a new one.
Here in Europe we have 95 or 98 unleaded, take it or push it home. 90 is a bit low but they run on crap fuel just fine, unleaded is fine as they have harden valve seats etc for it.
Hope that helps.
Peter
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John Reed
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09-09-2015 03:46 AM
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