New CDI...
#21
06-20-2012, 11:16 PM
Any in line automotive fuse will work. You can use the blade type (like in most cars now), or the 3AG type (glass cylinder anout 1/4 inch diameter and about 1 inch long). Also, if the fuse says 125 VAC or some other voltage rating that is OK. That's the maximum voltage it can safely interrupt. 12 volts is lower than that so it will be fine.
Usually the ignition coil is grounded by the mounting bolt. But sometimes there is also a ground wire too. Am I correct in assuming there are two wires at the ignition coil (ignoring the fat high tension lead to the spark plug)? If so measure the resistance of both those wires to the coil mounting bolt. One will read zero ohms, the other will read a low value like 0.7 ohms (but not zero). The low value terminal is the one that wires to the CDI ignition output. The zero ohm terminal goes to ground.
Usually the ignition coil is grounded by the mounting bolt. But sometimes there is also a ground wire too. Am I correct in assuming there are two wires at the ignition coil (ignoring the fat high tension lead to the spark plug)? If so measure the resistance of both those wires to the coil mounting bolt. One will read zero ohms, the other will read a low value like 0.7 ohms (but not zero). The low value terminal is the one that wires to the CDI ignition output. The zero ohm terminal goes to ground.
#26
06-22-2012, 11:49 PM
#27
06-23-2012, 12:36 AM
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Nope. This is not going to work at all. The AC Ignition power winding is *low current* and *moderately high voltage*. The battery charge coil is *low voltage* and *moderately high current*. Totally different...
They both put out "power" (measured in watts). Power is the product of voltage times the current, so both coils can put out equal power. But you need low voltage (i.e. 12 volts) at fairly high current to keep the battery charged. What are you going to do with the ignition power winding output? Several hundred volts at a few tens of milliamps (ten milliamps = 0.01 amps)? How are you going to convert that output to something the battery can use. You can't do this with creative wiring. This would require a conversion power supply (and lots of circuitry - and all the inefficiencies (losses) of power conversion as well).
This does not sound like a good plan to me
.
Before I used an example of a 150cc GY6 machine when switched to a battery charge only stator from one with a AC ignition power pole. I stated that you might get a *slight* increase in stator output power. But in this scenario that we are now talking about (with a 110cc 2 pole stator), I would predict that you would experience a significant *loss* of power when switching your CDI to DC powered. In addition I worry that the losses may be so significant that you may not be able to keep your battery charged at all- in other words so much power is lost that the battery is constantly being drained of power.
There are ways to measure this after you wire it up - assuming you want to proceed. But I have to warn you before you start about the probable outcome. Sorry for the negative news....
They both put out "power" (measured in watts). Power is the product of voltage times the current, so both coils can put out equal power. But you need low voltage (i.e. 12 volts) at fairly high current to keep the battery charged. What are you going to do with the ignition power winding output? Several hundred volts at a few tens of milliamps (ten milliamps = 0.01 amps)? How are you going to convert that output to something the battery can use. You can't do this with creative wiring. This would require a conversion power supply (and lots of circuitry - and all the inefficiencies (losses) of power conversion as well).
This does not sound like a good plan to me
.Before I used an example of a 150cc GY6 machine when switched to a battery charge only stator from one with a AC ignition power pole. I stated that you might get a *slight* increase in stator output power. But in this scenario that we are now talking about (with a 110cc 2 pole stator), I would predict that you would experience a significant *loss* of power when switching your CDI to DC powered. In addition I worry that the losses may be so significant that you may not be able to keep your battery charged at all- in other words so much power is lost that the battery is constantly being drained of power.
There are ways to measure this after you wire it up - assuming you want to proceed. But I have to warn you before you start about the probable outcome. Sorry for the negative news...
.
#28
06-23-2012, 01:11 AM
