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#71

08-07-2012, 12:25 AM

cesar110

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Location: Edmonds, Washington

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Quote:

Originally Posted by LynnEdwards

1) At idle, with the R/R unplugged, what AC voltage do you measure from your new coil?

2) If you take your new R/R that you built and temporarily short the two SCRs' gate and cathode together (Q2 and Q3), that will turn off any attempt at limiting the output. The regulator will go ***** to the wall trying to charge the battery. This is OK for a quick short term test, but don't do this for extended periods. What output voltage do you measure at roughly 3000 RPM with the headlights off, the regulator plugged in, and the battery hooked up?

And out of curiousity - where did you manage to buy your parts from? Did you do any part value substitutions?

Ok, I will do that this weekend. I bought most of my parts from a site I discovered ( newark.com ) and RadioShack. I couldn't find a BT151-600 so I used a BT151-650r. I used a 12volt zener. A bridge rectifier rated at 400v at 8amps part #KBPC804 124 . Could I run the regulators in series or would that be too much? It's always good to be curious!

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#72

08-07-2012, 12:42 AM

cesar110

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I'm really sorry about the quality of the photos. Some show my finished R/R and the others show my redesign that looks better that I will solder soon. Not to bad for a solder rookie! The only problem is that these boxes cannot fit the 213 hole board! I improvised a little with the heatsink

. How hot do these get?

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#73

08-07-2012, 02:42 AM

cesar110

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Quote:

Originally Posted by LynnEdwards

35 watts is a lot to ask from a 110cc machine. I'm doubtful that it can be done. But I've never tried it so I don't know for sure.

I don't know anything specific about your current headlight bulb from the pic. I'm assuming it is an ordinary generic incandescant bulb?

Is halogen considered incandescent?

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