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fuse gets hot and wont start?

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Old 08-04-2013, 12:04 AM
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Default fuse gets hot and wont start?

i got a little 110cc that you guys helped get running but now what happened is i was riding it then turned it off and tried to start again and it wouldn't crank but the brake light still worked and the battery has over 12 volts. Also after i took off the seat i saw the white fuse holder was melting , the fuse got really hot , i disconected it. So today i attached a wire to the positive on battery to the starter and then pressed the start button and it started. whats wrong and how can i fix it? thanks ps the the 2 red wires connected to the fuse spark when they touch
 
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Old 08-16-2013, 04:54 PM
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what size fuse is that? i would think it'd need to be <7 amp.
 
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Old 08-16-2013, 04:55 PM
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starting to sound like a direct short. think of the sparking wires like welding leads. yep, one of them wires has a deficiency or break in it or an exposed wire out of the wire jacket insulation and is touching something else or the frame. trace the wiring out and see if you got a bad spot of wire. then use electrical tape to wrap it or replace the wire.
 
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Old 08-16-2013, 08:15 PM
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so i followed the red wire connected to the fuse that has become negative and found that the joined it to a few other things one goes to headlight , one goes to tether and one goes to the voltage regulator so i disconected each and found that the one that goes to voltage regulator is grounded for some reason. i though there was a short inside so i replaced that and now no more ground coming from that wire but still wont crank but lights are still working
 
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Old 08-16-2013, 09:27 PM
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ok, so the starter won't crank/turn over the engine, right? let's do this, make sure your brake switch works there on the left handlebar brake lever. should be a piston that is actuated from the lever in/out of the reservoir(make sure you got plenty of DOT 4 brake fluid in the reservoir). should be 2 wires. that's the switch. a safety interlock switch that if not activated, will prevent the starter from cranking so a little kid won't get run over if they were to be standing beside the quad and it starts. SO, let's satisfy that interlock and make sure the switch works. easy test.....does the brake light illuminate?
next, we'll need to make sure we got the "ON" "KILL" "ON" red slider switch working and in the correct position there on the left handlebar also.
now, we gotta make sure we can get power from the start button to the solenoid area. when the key is "ON".
all in all, check the battery for proper voltage levels. this should work in this order once we check it all out.

holler back.
 
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Old 08-16-2013, 10:49 PM
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ill get to it tomorrow , but i think the battery may be running low not too low though like 11 volts , whats the lowest it can be to turn the engine?
 
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Old 08-17-2013, 08:44 AM
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charge the battery. you need >12 volts. usually 12.4-12.6 would do the job adequately. OR, you can use jumper cables from your car's battery to help it if need be. 12v system is a 12v system. only difference is the amount of amps.
 
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Old 08-18-2013, 09:37 PM
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Yep thats it , needed to jump it off the car. Thanks for helping me out
 
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Old 08-19-2013, 01:23 PM
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consider a new battery. heck, i buy the $40 walmart everstarts. they work for me. you may have a cell trying to die or a cell starting to go dry.
 
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Old 08-22-2013, 12:01 PM
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would this light work if i wired it straight to the existing headlight wires? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spot-18W-LED-Work-Bar-Light-Slim-Off-Road-Car-Truck-ATV-UTV-Fog-Driving-Lamp-/380671290306?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58a1c6ebc2&vxp=mtr
 
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