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cool so the pinouts on these should be universal so the wires are really whatever the manufacturer decided to use. we are going to wire the cdi up and see if it will
flash the light bulb when magnetically triggered so your spare parts will come in handy. so your going to use your spare cdi first and the pulse coil from the old stator and some wire. wire it up like the picture and pass a magnet over the pulsed coil see if it lights up.
the two outlets on the bottom left are just jumpered together to bypass the kill switch
cool so the pinouts on these should be universal so the wires are really whatever the manufacturer decided to use. we are going to wire the cdi up and see if it will
flash the light bulb when magnetically triggered so your spare parts will come in handy. so your going to use your spare cdi first and the pulse coil from the old stator and some wire. wire it up like the picture and pass a magnet over the pulsed coil see if it lights up.
the two outlets on the bottom left are just jumpered together to bypass the kill switch
So, I couldn't find my old stator and used the new one. I've included a pic of my "wiring" on my old cdi. I didn't remove the pulse coil but just used the wire from it.
I never got the light to come on. Checked to make sure it was working. I used a 12v shop light, it worked when direct connected to the battery but not when I used the "jig" you suggested.
I did wire the pulse coil and light to battery ground. Also used a magnetic pickup stick( cheap ones to pick up bolts and dropped sockets). It would stick like it has an attraction but no light.
well if its not firing there you may have gotten a bad cdi. you are correct about the wiring thats why i keep talking about the multi meter in continuity mode. it tells you whether you have a broken circuit or a working wire. something to try is find a ground up towards the lights and run a wire from there to the negative terminal on your battery. then give it a spin if it works youve lost your circuit ground and just need to hack in a new wire.
do any of your heavy connections look burnt from the inside out?
Heavy connections? I'll check. I tried what you said about a wire running from battery negative to a negative (green) wire near the handlebars. I also tried to run the wire to a motor ground from battery. Nothing.
Also took black and white kill switch wire (middle of bottom row on CDI connector), connected a toggle switch to motor ground just to see if there was a change there. Still nothing.
I'm half tempted to get another harness. It just leads me back to wiring in my mind. I'm not getting any voltage to charge the battery, a little more than half the voltage I should be getting for AC ignition power.
Here's what I sourced for a harness. If you have any better sources, I'm all ears. Same for any other things you wanna try.
what i meant where the connectors for the stator to the regulator rectifier or the rectifier to the cdi if you look into the connector does it look like its found high heat or sparking in there. I had this happen on one of my quads and I was able to replace that when i replaced the regulator. it came with the new rectifier. If you want to replace the wiring harness thats an up to you move, you are right things can go wrong in the harness. the quad im working on now i removed the harness and repaired it gave me the oppurtunity to go wire by wire find what needed replacing and what had been removed. in my case the ground circuit was lost. i had to splice some new wires to repair some worn out wires from the factory, also the factory splices where junk.
Feb 4, 2022 | 11:57 AM
