fushin 90cc atv wont get power
#11
ok I'm really stumped ... checked the inline fuse and even replaced it just to make sure but still nothing... I went over the connections and couldn't find anything loose...could it possibly be a bad kill switch? But wouldn't the brake light still come on even if the kill switch was bad? I know the battery has a charge but it doesnt seem that I am getting power anywhere? I'm probably gonna go through every wire again tonight..but if there are any other thoughts....
#15
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tracy, California, USA
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If you'll accept my humble opinion I think you are making an easy problem into a very hard one. Get yourself a meter for goodness sake! They're really inexpensive, and a very powerful tool when it comes to electrical problems. You often cannot see electrical problems - you have to measure to find the problem .
Here is a cheap meter:
Digital Multimeter - Save on this 7 Function Digital Multimeter
They work, though this is a better deal overall in terms of price/performance:
http://www.harborfreight.com/ac-dc-d...ter-37772.html
Both these meter genre's are sold under a bunch of different names. Look at your hardware stores, electronics stores, etc. They are all over the place.
This is a simple process. You turn on the ignition switch, then measure for 12 volts progressively down the line:
1) At the battery,
2) At the output side of the fuse,
3) At the input side of the igntion switch,
4) At the output side of the ignition switch
5) At the input side of the brake switch,
6) At the output side of the brake switch,
Etcetera. You're just following the path, until you find the break. It is as simple as that.
Kill switches will prevent spark. They will not prevent lights from lighting or keep the starter motor from turning.
Here is a cheap meter:
Digital Multimeter - Save on this 7 Function Digital Multimeter
They work, though this is a better deal overall in terms of price/performance:
http://www.harborfreight.com/ac-dc-d...ter-37772.html
Both these meter genre's are sold under a bunch of different names. Look at your hardware stores, electronics stores, etc. They are all over the place.
This is a simple process. You turn on the ignition switch, then measure for 12 volts progressively down the line:
1) At the battery,
2) At the output side of the fuse,
3) At the input side of the igntion switch,
4) At the output side of the ignition switch
5) At the input side of the brake switch,
6) At the output side of the brake switch,
Etcetera. You're just following the path, until you find the break. It is as simple as that.
Kill switches will prevent spark. They will not prevent lights from lighting or keep the starter motor from turning.
#16
If you'll accept my humble opinion I think you are making an easy problem into a very hard one.
Here is a cheap meter:
Digital Multimeter - Save on this 7 Function Digital Multimeter
Here is a cheap meter:
Digital Multimeter - Save on this 7 Function Digital Multimeter
Thats the one I got a few of... also have a better GB Instruments that Ive had for 20 years or more.. but generally I just want to know 3 things 1) is their power? 2) how much?3) is that wire connected at both ends? (continuity)..
Since my knowledge of electricity is limited I have to keep it as simple as possible..
#17
ok thanks guys.. I have 2 different Fluke meters..so I guess I should probably put them to use...lol...I will test that tonight when I get some free time..and will see what I find...thanks for the patience and the input...and no I'm not gonna set it on fire just yet.... when it gets to that point I will strap some h1000's to it with a really long wick and light and ghost ride it off a cliff... that would be a show..hahahaha
#18
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