JM250 Sport - Fuel Valve Replacement
#1
"Parts Unlimited" sells a fuel valve for about $11.00 plus S&H that works great. It is a 90 degree 1/4" model made for a panel mount. You must fabricate a small sheet metal mount about 2" x 3" with one 9/16" hole and two 1/4" mounting holes. The 9/16" hole can be made with a 1/2" drill and then a little rat-tail file work. I suggest that you drill the holes in the larger sheet metal scrap BEFORE you cut out the little 2" x 3" piece. The two 1/4" holes should be made to line up with the existing bracket that is welded on the quad already. The threaded part of the valve goes thru the new plate with the supplied nut and washer slipping over the little red handle on the outside.
Run a new 1/4" hose from the tank to the back of the valve. Run about 2" of hose out the side (pointed toward rear of quad) of the new valve to a new 1" diameter x 2-1/2" long filter, then to the carb.
Run a new 1/4" hose from the tank to the back of the valve. Run about 2" of hose out the side (pointed toward rear of quad) of the new valve to a new 1" diameter x 2-1/2" long filter, then to the carb.
#2
Thanks for the info NJDale! I have always wondered how long until the stock ones crack. Or did you change it out to be able to use the same fuel line size on each end?
#3
MWQ - I had read where someone had said what a joy it was to get a fuel hose that fit the tank fitting over the fuel valve, but it didn't really register until I was taking the fuel system apart to clean the tank and replace the filter. (Cold Winter maintenance projects). When I took the valve off, I just thought - No Way!! (If you take any 1/4" rubber line & stretch it to 3/8" - it's just a matter of time until the stretching cracks the hose). Since I keep the quads in my garage which is under my house; the thought of a gallon of spilled gasoline spread all over the garage floor in the middle of the night didn't appeal to me. ( 1 gallon of gasoline = 8 sticks of dynamite !!!). The Web is really great - if you spend enough time looking, you can find almost anything. (Remember, I was the one who found the great selection of different size rear gears for the JM250 from JT Sprockets - JTR802-xx )
#4
I ended up making a few adapter's out of aluminum that takes 1/4 on one end and 3/8 on the other. I use them on most of my Jetmoto's. Ive never really liked the 3/8 to 1/4 fuel line arrangement much. Wouldnt be bad if the stock rubber lasted longer than a few months. For the life of me I cant figure out why the Chinese cant make anything decent out of rubber except for tires.
#5
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: NJDale
(Remember, I was the one who found the great selection of different size rear gears for the JM250 from JT Sprockets - JTR802-xx )</end quote></div>
I wish I could say I remembered that.... Im pretty sure that info has been used a few times . [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] There was a post recently from a guy who had a 14/50 combo on his Jet 250.
(Remember, I was the one who found the great selection of different size rear gears for the JM250 from JT Sprockets - JTR802-xx )</end quote></div>
I wish I could say I remembered that.... Im pretty sure that info has been used a few times . [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] There was a post recently from a guy who had a 14/50 combo on his Jet 250.
#6
To make it easier while hunting the parts:
The Fuel Valve is: Dapco #1118
( all the same) Parts Unlimited #1118
Motion Pro #P12-035
The Fuel Filter that I used was:
Industrial Specialties "Large Inline Filter" #73910-00-120 (#at most places)
It is about $3.00 and is "milky translucent" and fits good under the upper frame rail.
The Fuel Valve is: Dapco #1118
( all the same) Parts Unlimited #1118
Motion Pro #P12-035
The Fuel Filter that I used was:
Industrial Specialties "Large Inline Filter" #73910-00-120 (#at most places)
It is about $3.00 and is "milky translucent" and fits good under the upper frame rail.
#7
Lets try to see if I can up-load ia picture of the valve??? If there is no picture here then it means that I could not get it to work!!! If there is then it means that I learned something new.
Nope - couldn't get it to work. I'll see if I can get it to post on "My Profile Page" and maybe MWQ or someone can cut it from there and post it here in this forum subject.
Nope - couldn't get it to work. I'll see if I can get it to post on "My Profile Page" and maybe MWQ or someone can cut it from there and post it here in this forum subject.
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#8
MWQ - The reason that Chinese rubber items don't last long is that they "Cheat" on the Specialty Additives (or just skip them entirely). The additives are very expense on a per pound basis - but you normally don't use very much in a batch. The Additives are what give each batch of liquid rubber it's specific properties like; flexibility, heat resistance, Ozone / Oxygen / UV Resistance. etc. I guess that the tire manufacturers figured out that on such an expensive product (relatively) that the defective come backs were more expensive that just putting in the proper additives in the first place. But, who returns fuel hoses, ball joint boots, etc.
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