Hey guys new here and new to tao tao atv. Bought my son what I believe is a 110 TForce, ( on the tag up front it says 120?) for Christmas this year. I have searched high and low, and found nothing. And TAO is of no help, because I didn't have a certified tech assemble it. My issue is I have gone through 2 batteries becuase the machine is overcharging. Originally they sent me a new stator, and regulator. That didn't fix it. Still over charging. At idle, it was holding at 14-14.5 volts, but any throttle and it jumps to 18 volts . Talked with one of their techs and he said they originally sent me the wrong regulator, so they sent me another. Got the newest one today, installed it, and now it drops to 10-11 volts at idle and spikes to 22 volts whenbo throttle up. Now they want me to take it to a certified tech. I'm not paying for that, but I am stumped at this point. Oh, the tech also sent me a picture of what the wires should look like going from the stator back to the regulator and that all looks good. Any ideas?
Thanks

 

Okay guys, I am stumped. I have done some testing, but not 100% sure what numbers I'm looking for. I have changed now 4 different regulators (one directly from TaoTao Parts Direct) with all the same outcome. At idle I get 13.9-14.5 volts on the battery. When I hit the throttle it continues to climb to about 17 volts. I have checked grounds, I have checked wires from the regulator in depth for cracks. All look good. Plug connectors seem tight. I took some readings with my meter the other day, and am hoping someone can decifer them. So here goes:

Red and black stator 51 AC volts
White 11
Yellow 8
Blue 1 volt AC

Regulator
White 11 AC
Yellow 9
Red all over the place

Regulator DC
Red 14.2 idle climbs with throttle applied
Non at other wires

Ohm Neg. lead from meter to neg. on battery
Stator
White .4
Yellow .3
Blue 144.6
Red 0L
Green 0.0

Regulator. -lead on green + to all others
.3 yellow
White .5
Red OL
Green 0.0

Ohm. - lead on green + to all others
Green to yellow .2
Green to red 584 and dropping
Green to blue 145.7
Green to white .2

I will attach some images of the machine too. When I bought it, amazon said it was a 110, The serial number tells me its a 120. So I'm a little confused.

 

Not sure whats going on here. I've replaced the regulator 4 different times with the same outcome. I've even bought a regulator/rectifier directly from TAOTAO parts direct. Voltage at idle is between 13.8-14.5 volts. As soon as I hit the throttle, it climbs to 16-17volts. Then drops back to 14.4 I have checked grounds, moved grounds, checked wiring, checked the plugs, and all visually look okay. Wife is not letting me throw any more parts at it, so I'm coming here for help. I have done some voltage testing and OHM testing, but need help decifering these numbers. I also have some pictures I would like to add. I'm just a little confused, when i I bought the ATV amazons description was a 110cc. The plate on the bike says 120cc class. It's a 2018 model. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. My son would love to be able ride once we get out of the deep freeze here in North Dakota.
Here's some of the numbers I got(not sure if I did this right)

Red and black stator wires 51 AC volts neg. lead on meter to neg. batt.
White 11
Yellow 8
Blue 1 volt AC

Regulator neg. lead of meter to battery
White 11 AC
Yellow 9
Red all over the place

Regulator DC neg. lead from meter to batt.
Red 14.2 idle climbs with throttle applied
Non at other wires

Ohm neg. lead on meter to battery
Stator
White .4
Yellow .3
Blue 144.6
Red 0L
Green 0.0

Regulator. -lead on green + to all others
.3 yellow
White .5
Red OL
Green 0.0

Ohm. - lead on green + to all others
Green to yellow .2
Green to red 584 and dropping
Green to blue 145.7
Green to white .2

 

Okay, so wife doesn't like me continuing to throw parts at this thing and I'm too stubborn to bring it in so I'm trying again on here. I did a few tests tonight and want to see if anyone can decifer this. I also felt I,had a win tonight. I got the voltage to consistently read 14.3 at idle. Only when I gave it throttle did it climb to 17v. So here's this:

Red and black stator 51 AC volts
White 11
Yellow 8
Blue 1 volt AC

Regulator
White 11 AC
Yellow 9
Red all over the place

Regulator DC
Red 14.2 idle climbs with throttle applied
Non at other wires

Ohm
Stator
White .4
Yellow .3
Blue 144.6
Red 0L
Green 0.0

Regulator. -lead on green + to all others
.3 yellow
White .5
Red OL
Green 0.0

Ohm. - lead on green + to all others
Green to yellow .2
Green to red 584 and dropping
Green to blue 145.7
Green to white .2

Not sure if I'm getting my readings correctly or not. New to OHM testing.

 

If they told you to take it to a dealer to get fixed then i would do it that will be their bill.. I would be doing nothing to it without them supplying the parts. U sure you ordered the right stator and regulator? Their are ac and dc versions. The engines are the same between teh 90 to the 150 if i remember correctly just the frame changes

Whats the voltage do when headlights are on?

 

The headlights come on only when running. I'm guessing theyre AC voltage The only time the voltage drops by a few points, is when I squeeze the brake handle and the rear tail light comes on. They will not pay anything because I did not have it assembled by a dealer. And my closest dealer is about 600 miles. They sent me a replacement stator and regulator originally, then when I talked to a tech with them, he stated they sent the wrong regulator. That still didn't fix it, so I bought a new regulator/rectifier directly from taotaopartsdirect.com . That didn't change anything. Now I'm sitting on 4 regulators, without a properly charging ATV.

 

Does not matter who assembled. Assembly does not touch the electrical so they legally cannot use that as a excuse. You can use any motorsports dealer they still have to foot the bill. Or they send u whole new machine as their must be a issue in the harness

 

Firstly, does the bike have a voltage regulator, or just a rectifier? Some kids quads, especially those with AC lighting, only have a rectifier. The theory being the alternator is too feeble the overcharge the battery. People tend to mix the terms regulator and rectifier up as in most cases the same box does both jobs, but if it does only have a rectifier then yes, when you rev it you may get 17v or more.

 

Honestly, I'm not even sure. Can you show me the difference? Because I have no part numbers to go by, and I don't understand how they could sell me a rectifier, and label it both regulator/rectifier. If it was just a rectifier, wouldn't a lot of customers be blowing up batteries left and right? This is what I ordered directly from TaoTaopartsdirect.com. The description says regulator/rectifier. I honestly don't know what model bike I have, because it said 110 from where i bought it, and it says 120 class on the plate. I know the engine parts are mostly the same, but is it possible that only a 110 comes with a rectifier, and a 120 needs both? I'm so confused.
Thanks for the replies BTW

 

You can't tell the difference between a rectifier and a regulator/rectifier by looking at it, though, in theory, the fins are needed on a regulator to get rid of the heat, as it turns the excess power produced by the alternator into heat. A rectifier simply turns AC into DC. However Honda 450s did have a regulator, without any fins! I can't see your problem being anything other than that black box as, whatever the alternator puts out goes into a regulator and 13v to 14.5v DC should come out. As I wrote earlier, rectifier only bikes don't produce much power from the alternator, and seem to work OK without a regulator. The 110 and 120cc thing is not that important, cylinder capacities are rarely that exact size, a Honda 250 Recon is actually 229cc.