Ultimate Ignition
#61
STAKK; I did post that, you mill the inside bottom of both sheves.
I ALSO POSTED THAT I DIDN'T RECOMEND DOING THIS.
It will give you more speed, but because the it changes the angles at the bottom of the primary, it doesn't match the belt, the belt will squeel and you'll have very short belt and no speeds under about 10 MPH.
Newbeatle; you need more sleep! I wouldn't spend any money on the 03 clutches, anything you can do, can be done to the 02's.
Your right about the clutching, we need different weights, angles and setups, but these won't add much speed, just let us shift out quicker, we'll be no faster, just 2-3 bike quicker getting up to top speed.
We need a different belt. There is at least 10 MPH more speed in our clutches as they are if we had a wider and slightly longer belt. The person that comes up with a replacement will be a hero!
Wam!! (I like this Wam! stuff)
I ALSO POSTED THAT I DIDN'T RECOMEND DOING THIS.
It will give you more speed, but because the it changes the angles at the bottom of the primary, it doesn't match the belt, the belt will squeel and you'll have very short belt and no speeds under about 10 MPH.
Newbeatle; you need more sleep! I wouldn't spend any money on the 03 clutches, anything you can do, can be done to the 02's.
Your right about the clutching, we need different weights, angles and setups, but these won't add much speed, just let us shift out quicker, we'll be no faster, just 2-3 bike quicker getting up to top speed.
We need a different belt. There is at least 10 MPH more speed in our clutches as they are if we had a wider and slightly longer belt. The person that comes up with a replacement will be a hero!
Wam!! (I like this Wam! stuff)
#63
PcDoc
Not sure on the width or length, take your clutch in to him with the primary spring out,
Close the sheves all the way up and try to find a belt that will fit the very out side of the clutch. Snowmoble clutch belts even ride higher than the sheves, almost come off the top.
When you find a belt with this width. then measure the difference between the marks the old belt left and where the new belt will ride, measure half way around the clutch at both marks, . whatever the difference is the extra length needed.
Wam! bang!
Not sure on the width or length, take your clutch in to him with the primary spring out,
Close the sheves all the way up and try to find a belt that will fit the very out side of the clutch. Snowmoble clutch belts even ride higher than the sheves, almost come off the top.
When you find a belt with this width. then measure the difference between the marks the old belt left and where the new belt will ride, measure half way around the clutch at both marks, . whatever the difference is the extra length needed.
Wam! bang!
#64
The drive clutch on a v has a 2 angle fixed sheave.
The belt from a 360 is slightly wider,and does travel slightly higher on the primary....but it's longer length doesn't allow it to go quite as far down in the secondary,thus sort of defeating the purpose(too bad it wasn't just a tad wider. If your engine has had hp increase,and/or likes a little higher rpm there is more benefeit to going higher in the primary.Lower powered,lower reving stockers seem to have just as good top end by running out of belt travel and building rpm for speed.
A couple more weeks we will have some product ready,But I don't want the moderators to think I'm on here to sell,just giving input to the items above that have already been mentioned for those who might be interested.
The belt from a 360 is slightly wider,and does travel slightly higher on the primary....but it's longer length doesn't allow it to go quite as far down in the secondary,thus sort of defeating the purpose(too bad it wasn't just a tad wider. If your engine has had hp increase,and/or likes a little higher rpm there is more benefeit to going higher in the primary.Lower powered,lower reving stockers seem to have just as good top end by running out of belt travel and building rpm for speed.
A couple more weeks we will have some product ready,But I don't want the moderators to think I'm on here to sell,just giving input to the items above that have already been mentioned for those who might be interested.
#66
Freisen,
Hopefully I will have the components I need for trials this weekend. To tell you the truth the cdi is not needed once a full proof ignition is do-abl. Actuators can take place of the 4x4 system, the fuel sensor can be eliminated along with some other bothersome components but that is next week LOL.
Just a preliminary try with my initial setup on the 700 with drastic results. I had to put some weight on the front end but pulled a respectable 65 mph in 350 feet. Next I machined the clutch and pulled an interesting 74 mph in 350 feet. It will go to 9800 before valve float which is close to 90 mph. The V700 does have different cams in it but not sure on the duration to give an accurate fuel ratio. If I get the unit up and running this weekend I am going to introduce the juice to see what it can handle. Short dyno run with the clutch held at 3/4 position turned out 68 hp at 9000 rpm to the rear wheel. This is a low rating for the motor but realize it is very hard to get respectable readings with CVT belt drive almost impossible.
With respect to the clutch most of the ramp up problems on the clutch is the angle on the front sheave. By increasing the angle somewhat the belt ramps up faster and holds the belt much better. By machining the rear bushing so a 360 belt will receed to the bottom there is no need go for another belt. Although it would be nicer if the sheaves were another inch taller on both ends and a new belt were introduced. There is oodles of torque that Kawi has waiting to be tapped.
We are very close to produceing a Raptor killer!!!!
Hopefully I will have the components I need for trials this weekend. To tell you the truth the cdi is not needed once a full proof ignition is do-abl. Actuators can take place of the 4x4 system, the fuel sensor can be eliminated along with some other bothersome components but that is next week LOL.
Just a preliminary try with my initial setup on the 700 with drastic results. I had to put some weight on the front end but pulled a respectable 65 mph in 350 feet. Next I machined the clutch and pulled an interesting 74 mph in 350 feet. It will go to 9800 before valve float which is close to 90 mph. The V700 does have different cams in it but not sure on the duration to give an accurate fuel ratio. If I get the unit up and running this weekend I am going to introduce the juice to see what it can handle. Short dyno run with the clutch held at 3/4 position turned out 68 hp at 9000 rpm to the rear wheel. This is a low rating for the motor but realize it is very hard to get respectable readings with CVT belt drive almost impossible.
With respect to the clutch most of the ramp up problems on the clutch is the angle on the front sheave. By increasing the angle somewhat the belt ramps up faster and holds the belt much better. By machining the rear bushing so a 360 belt will receed to the bottom there is no need go for another belt. Although it would be nicer if the sheaves were another inch taller on both ends and a new belt were introduced. There is oodles of torque that Kawi has waiting to be tapped.
We are very close to produceing a Raptor killer!!!!
#69
Hey Shotgun,
My plans are this:
Drill 8 holes in faceplate($66 for new faceplate) and change to the pink spring from EPI.
with those mods, will i need to change out the clutch weights. reshim the belt?
I have not messed with anything in this area before so it is all new to me. i can handle the mechanics of this but i am not sure about what else would need to be changed.
Thanks.
My plans are this:
Drill 8 holes in faceplate($66 for new faceplate) and change to the pink spring from EPI.
with those mods, will i need to change out the clutch weights. reshim the belt?
I have not messed with anything in this area before so it is all new to me. i can handle the mechanics of this but i am not sure about what else would need to be changed.
Thanks.


