Went to your site and am convinced you are a clutch wizard---Tell me about Dalton Overdrive covers---Clutch weights---primary springs----I see shiftout # and stall # and have absolutely no idea what they mean-----Although I am sure these should have some type of positive impact on the slow revving 360-----Speed me up!!

 

I think he's a Pinball wizard. But, maybe he's a Space Cowboy? Others call him the Ganster of love....[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]


Put a good tach on your machine and note your top rpm at full throttle. You should work from there.

If you want more bottom end grunt then consider a few shims under the primary spring. On my machine, each spacer increases the engagement RPM by 100rpm. You should be able to add up to 3 spacers.

Ultimately, you are limited by the fact it is a single clylinder 360. Your gains will not be huge anyway.

If you want to learn more about clutching then get Aaens book. It is considered the bible for clutch tuners.

 

I remember when no one knew what stall was....come a long way..lol

 

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

You sledders had all the fun prior.

 

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

You guy's are funny...LOL... I"m just some guy from Minnesota... Just to clairify... OLEMAN... I don't have a site... on another forum, today, I posted a link to KEVIN M's site ( moderator on the KFX forum on that forum's site )... he is very knowledgeable on making his V Force go FAST... the link I specifically posted was the spring chart...

If the springs are interchangeable between the 360's & it's bigger brothers, those are your spring options... the lower numbers are the poundage on the springs when it is mounted... the higher this number, the more your engine will rev up before the clutch engages... shims may be added to raise that engagement stall ( IMO, stall is not going to help you )...

the second number is the poundage that determines what rpm the clutch weights "shift" the CVT... though I always thought that the secondary clutch spring should also effect this, along with the weight & cam profile of the weights... the secondary spring appears to not make as much difference as I would have thought ??? But I will admit, that I only have a marginal grasp of all that effects the CVT's shifting...

DWB is correct, as I suggested before... you need a tach... if you have no idea of what your engines rpm's are at speed, you can't effectively tune your clutch... however, I'm guessing that your overall gear ratio is lower... this could be in the front & rear diffs, or in the final shift out gearing on the CVT... you may come to find that your single cylinder engine is not cabable of sustaining the rpm's that the twins are... you may need to switch out your primary & secondary clutches, for the 300 Prairie clutches ( if they are capable of a higher CVT final ratio, being a smaller single cylinder engine, & noting that our several year old 300 full time 4 X 4 is capable of running the same speeds as your selectable 360, & if the shaft sizes are compatable ??? ), or you may find that since the 360 uses the same swing arm as it's ( probably much higher reving, bigger brothers ), that the gear ratios at the front & rear diff are too low ???

I'd be happy to measure the clutch O.D.'s, shaft sizes, etc. on our 300, next time I open the belt, if you think that will help you...

sorry to disapoint you all, "I know nothing, nothing"...LOL

 

OLEMAN... it is possible that the Dalton clutch cover may help you... I don't have a 360, or ride with anyone that does, so I haven't seen the insides of the CVT, to tell if they use the same primary or not... lightening the primary will undoubtedly make your engine rev faster... however it will also reduce the "flywheel effect" ... added "felt" torque, that the added rotating mass adds... we need to really have some idea of the rpm's you are running to offer any educated guesses as to what your next step is...

 

It kind of surprises me how little time is spent on clutching on ATV's that is the first you thing you do to a sled.

For guys that are racing etc. Kinetic would custom cut helix's for us at any rate we wanted. They would even recut old helix's. I would think Dalton would do the same. You could fine tune your shift rate much better. I would think one that really flattened out at the end would be a big benifit for pullers, quick backshift and increased belt pressure.

 

Mrh,

Our helixes are a fixed design. It's not as simple as other clutches. It will be more expensive to weld the helix shut and recut the angle each time.

The primary is fully shifted out also. So, unless someone comes up with some aftermarket clutches that are tuneable, we are limited in our options. Regardless, we are investigating it and are open to new suggestions.