I am having some difficulty changing gears when my 650 is warmed up. I think it is an idling problem but not sure? I have tried to adjust the idle thumb **** as it worms up. I find my self having to bump up the rpm’s to get her to go into gear. This is a problem I have experienced since she was new. I do not believe this is a shifter linkage problem. I could use some help - - has anyone else experienced this problem.

 

I believe that you are having a shift linkage issure. Not a throttle issure. Try the adjustment on Nyrocs site or KOD

Hope this helps,

Michael

 

belt is loose pull out a shim on the secondary

 

Yes, that sounds correct, but my belt is in proper adjustment, and I still have to bump the throttle occasionally. Maybe a little higher idle would help.

 

Whenever mine does not want to go into gear I just give her a rock back and forth and it usually clicks in place.

 

Shifter linkage is not the issue causing the gear shift to require a throttle blip to shift into gear, it is almost certain to be a belt adjustment, (that is that the belt is either worn or the clutch needs to be re-shimmed. The belt must be not less than 28.8mm wide, and if you change it, try the belt for the 700cc bike. The 650 belts are of inferior quality). My ride
was doing the the same thing and a new belt and shim adjustment cured it. I also adjusted the shifter rod link, but that was to correct another problem that caused the quad to jump out of high gear on the fly. The reason why it is hard to shift from a standing start at idle is because with a loose belt (therefore having too great a deflection clearance) at idle RPM, the transmission gears are just not being revolved at all. These square-cut gears will not always mesh when they are complely stopped. The good thing about the set-up is that it does alert you to fix it, before the slipping belt wears a groove in the driving clutch pulley face, requiring replacement of the part.

Kawi 650 Prairie, stock drive line except 26" bearclaw tires fitted, 12 rear and 9 front.

 

I have read everything I can find about removing one of the shims in the driven pulley. Is it possible to replace the belt with a 700cc belt and also the driven spring? Do you think this will cure the problem without having to shim? I have read that the factory 700cc spring works much better for belt life.

 

CPYOR
Changing & adjusting the belt is not that hard. Visit Nyrocs or Kiss O Death's website. The hardest part of the job is getting the snap-ring on and off the secondary spring retainer. The PCV secondary spring tool on Nyrocs Website tends to spread apart even with zip-tie around base. If you make the tool use 2" metal cap or pipe. the hole you cut in the tool needs to be large enough for the snap-ring pliers to open/close and get you a set of heavy duty snap ring pliers.

You can buy the Stock Prairie primary spring from the dealer. Or, you can contact ritter cycle racing and get you some Dalton or EPI clutch Springs. I would suggest getting the primary clutch puller tool ($35), sure makes getting the belt on an off a lot easier.

Happy trails[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]