I read that stage one rejetting makes a 5% difference all around. Is this even enough to notice? I mean 5% is only 1/20th addition but I don't have many performance mods to compare it to. So, is it worth the 50 bucks?

 

If you change elevation then it becomes really important. If it's close from the factory for your elevation then I would go along with the 5% power increase due to the lean setting from the factory. I did rejet with a kit from dynojet and it did take a while to install it the first time. It also made a big difference whith the low speed stumble my quad had. Now I can rejet in about an hour.

 

If your machine is stock I wouldn't mess with a jet kit. If your changing elevations then it will help but how many people really stop on a trail during a trip and rejet? I probably wouldn't I'd just run a little rich if I'm going from a lower valley to a mountain. However if your modding your bike then a jetting change is a must. You can easily loose power with mods if you don't adjust for them.

 

I'm running an aftermarket exhaust and soon a clamp on intake system so I suppose it's a must. I've been having problems with my engine/carb and somone told me I need to adjust my valves and jetting so for 70 bucks including a repair manual I think I'll try it. I want more low wnd for the most part. can't even take the front wheels a couple inches off the ground with full throttle. I would think a 300 with aftermarket stuff would but it doesn't.

 

I have not yet had enough time to tear into my carbs on my brute force 750. Is it very hard for a do it yourselfer to change jets in this machine. I am mechanicaly inclined, I just don't have alot of spare time. Do service manuals show this procedure in detail? Are there any sort of short cuts or tricks that I should know about before I go in?

 

On a 750 changing the actual jets is nothing. However getting to the damn carbs is another story. I've done several jet kits on a few different bikes and the 750 is by far the most time consuming due to all the crap you've got to remove to get to the carbs. Also one other helpful thing make ABSOLUTELY sure the carb holders as kawie calls them or intake boots for normal people are on perfect. There is only a small section of the actual boot that fits over the carb. most other carbs have quite abit more. With this small amout the clamps will slide off and cut the boot while your riding if its not on perfect. Which is a pain in the rear to replace cuz you've got to take all that crap back off again. Anyway if your gonna do it make sure you've got 3-4 hours anyway.

 

Thanks for the info, I figured it would be a bit of a job. Ill just have to make time. I would rather be riding the thing in my spare time rather than wrenching on it.

 

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] Just rejetting alone is barely noticible, but opening the air box also helps. I used the dyno -jet kit on my 300 4x4 all instructions were included. I ended up using a richer jet than originally called for ( many are included) I prefere a slightly richer mix on air cooled motors. Then I opened up my airbox to let more air in, filtered the extra holes of course and added a UNI airfilter, all this did make a noticible difference. Will it pop wheelies....no... but will definetly beat any stock 300, Honda 350 Rancher, Artic Cat 300 & 400, Polaris 350 and most other machines in its class.
Went to H/M and could go up any hill. Hope this helps.......

Airshot

 

Ya I think I'm gonna get the dynojet kit. I have a lakota sport 2wd with dg exhaust and will get a twinair air filter by january alond with hopefully a big gun exhaust or different front sprocket.