i have a 1993 kawasaki 220 bayou and whenever i rev it over half it bogs down and runs terrible, any ideas what it might be?

 

how long has it been since the carburetor has been cleaned? have you checked for vacuum leaks? if equipped, is the rubber boot/intake in good shape?

 

yes i cleaned the carb a couple times, and everything looks in good condition.

 

Check to see if fuel cap is venting and that it is jetted for your location

 

I bought an 88 kawasaki bayou 300 2WD with no spark and been sitting for 7 years. Found the problem in the connector of the pick up coil (black/white//blue) cables and was abble to get my 0.5 v AC at the cdi connector doing a dinamic test with the electric start. I got spark back, clean the carburetor many times and really well with carb cleaner compressed air plus tools to clean the jets, clean gas tank, gasoline petcok and gasoline cap, perfect flow of gasoline...I start the quad let it warm and then when I hit the throtle the chinisse cdi blows up and the main fuse also blows, got another chinesse cdi that was defective, connectors were loose and did not engage so use the old connectors to be abble to fit it but then the atv starts and dies, start and dies so went back and check the spark and it was doing the same sparks was present at the beggining and dissapears. I got reimburse for the cdi and bougth a used OEM one and it did start the ATV and idles perfect, runs slow but as soon you push the gas harder the atv kind of bogs down and runs like kind of backfiring but not too loud and lost power, do not move. I checked compression an it is good 125 psi and the manual says that 115 psi is the lowest for that model. So maybe the used cdi, carburetor, valves or valves seats or the camshaft loves wear out. Valve clearance 0.12 intake and 0.18 exhaust so betwen specs. Anybody with the same problem solved?

 

Firstly, did you check the voltage across the battery as the revs rise as, if it goes over 15v, it can blow all those new CDIs. I did have a 300 with worn cam lobes but it ran quite well except the exhaust pipe quickly began to glow red hot. If you haven't already, fit a new plug, if that doesn't cure it fit a new coil, but most likely you still haven't got that carb clean enough, check if you can see through those jets when you have them out.

 

I did check voltage in the battery that is new 13.7 v DC the highest and yesterday got a full new rebuilt kit for the carb even when I suspected that was not going to solve the problem and as suspected it did not. Checked the spark and it was full of carbon that agrees to the manual means that fuel is not been burn well, so check tha time and squeeze a stick thru the spark plug hole to make sure that when I keep turning the piston start going down instead going even a bit up which means mecanically time is not right but even with that test as soon it pas the tdc marc piston starts dropping down so time is perfect. Last thing I am going to try is a new vostor cdi due to those cdi are hard to test even the manual says you need special multimeter from kawasaki to get accurate readings, so I decided to go for a brand new after market instead the used OEM I bought from ebay suspiciously cheap ($20) and if that does not solve my problem I will tear down the top end looking for an answer even with my 125 psi compression reading.

 

Sooty plug means rich mixture, if your jets are OK, choke stuck on, blocked filter or obstruction in snorkel tube, carb dashpot or needle fault, float sunk, or ignition not firing every rev. Did you change the plug? Did you change the coil?

 

Thanks for the suggestions but need something new, spark plug is new and also I have the old one with both is the same, ignition coil also I have two the OEM and aftermarket one both ignitions coil does the same, float closes perfectly level is as the manual says. Has not get the new CDI yet and is the last thing I hasn't try before I look in to the top end.