Hi - first time post, long time lurker

I am trying to fit an after market ignition switch to the KLF. The original switch has to be in exactly the right place to start and I though this little beauty would be a great addition!

My ignition switch has 3 wires - white (+ve), brown (-ve I think for the neutral and reverse lights) and a grey. The grey isn't shown on the Clymer manual diagram - it only shows the first 2. With the original switch in place, if I pull, ie separate, the grey, the bike stops.If I wire the new switch with white to the feed side of the switch and the brown to the switched side, the engine turns but doesn't catch. If I connect both the grey and the brown to the switched side, the engine turns and doesn't catch. If I wire back to the original switch and position exactly in the right place, quad starts.
So my question is - any ides what ye grey wire is for (engine kill?) and how would I wire up the new switch to ensure this same functionality as previous. The original switch only has 2 positions?

All help gratefully received as I kinda lost here

Thanks

Andy

 

Had another look at this today and cannot figure it out. Electrics not my strong point so all help appreciated

Andy

 

I can't find my KLF300 wiring diagram, but am fairly sure the grey goes to the extra pin on the voltage regulator. Why some regs have 6 pins I don't know, but they do. The 3 wire switch connects all 3 wires in the on position and disconnects all 3 in the off. Easy way to sort this is buy a new KLF300 ignition switch and plug it in, but checking eBay 3 wire switches don't exist, and genuine Kawasaki at circa $100 seems expensive, their drawings all seem to show 2 wire switches too.

 

Found wiring diagrams. See post #28<---<< Link

 

That shows a two wire switch. I know some are 3 wire, because I fitted one a while back and am fairly sure, during fault diagnosis, traced that grey to the regulator.

Incidentally that 220 wiring drawing you linked to is wrong, 220s use AC ignition, and the exciter coil + wiring is nowhere on that drawing, unless the 220 drawing I have is wrong, but there doesn't seem to be DC power going to that "CDI" either.

 

Thanks both, much appreciated. Merryman - thanks to you I now know what the 'spare' does. I tried making them all on the new switch, the starter turned but didnt fire. I'll check I want doing anything too dumb and try again. The new switch was to replace the original that is worn and will only start in one specific place. I think this new switch may be too lightweight for the current (Im reaching) and I'll try and track down a 3 wire KLF unit on Ebay.

Again, thanks for the help.

Andy

 

Hi, did you get to the bottom of the issue because I have exactly the same issue with mine. My grey wire goes from ignition to CDI box.
I’m thinking there must be a resistor inside the ignition switch or something else ???
any ideas appreciated
thanks

 

Sorry Mark - could not get it sorted, no combination seemed to allow the bike to start. I replaced the battery - for another reason - and then the key stared working better so I abandoned the project till I have more time.

Good luck

Andy