homemade lift kit - prairie 650
#1
Anyone done this themselves?
I was thinking about doing it, but I really don't know what is involved in the process. I'm sure I could get a machine shop to make some brackets for me. Anyone got any pictures of theirs or give any tips on doing this yourself.
Just wondering before I spend money on it.
I was thinking about doing it, but I really don't know what is involved in the process. I'm sure I could get a machine shop to make some brackets for me. Anyone got any pictures of theirs or give any tips on doing this yourself.
Just wondering before I spend money on it.
#2
I've got something to add, I'm going to try to make the stock springs on the front adjustable by using a short piece of threaded conduit pipe with the locking conduit nuts, it should work. I can pick up on the front end 3'' it seems like before the tires come off the ground.
#3
Nemmeh, I made a 1 1/4 inch lift for mine but I have access to a machine shop. I made spacers that screw right onto the top of the front struts to lift the front end. On the rear end, I removed the rear shock, cut the bottom end off the shock and made a new one approximately 1 inch longer to give it the 1 1/4 lift to match the front. Welded it back together and reinstalled the shock.
I looked at the Perfex lift and it is a POS. Wouldn't waste my money.
Trailhog, I machined a donut shaped piece about 1/2 inch thick that I installed on the front struts between the spring and the shock. Gave the front end quite a bit more preload to keep it from bottoming out. Seems to work pretty good.
I looked at the Perfex lift and it is a POS. Wouldn't waste my money.
Trailhog, I machined a donut shaped piece about 1/2 inch thick that I installed on the front struts between the spring and the shock. Gave the front end quite a bit more preload to keep it from bottoming out. Seems to work pretty good.
#4
Trailhog wrote:
Don't push the shock to the top of it's travel with your new adjusters. For the suspension to work properly you need 1/3 of the susp. travel at the top and 2/3 at the bottom. This allows the suspension to droop when the tires come to holes in the trails. If there is no "droop", the tires can't follow the contours of the trailbed. Hard on the machine and the driver.
I've got something to add, I'm going to try to make the stock springs on the front adjustable by using a short piece of threaded conduit pipe with the locking conduit nuts, it should work. I can pick up on the front end 3'' it seems like before the tires come off the ground.
#5
Novakaw650 I was thinking the same thing, but it's got to much sag. Remember when the single shock bikes came out? That was the main difference in the ride, like you said, because the suspension works both ways, not just up, like the old dual shock dirt bikes I had. The rear shock needs adjusting, but I won't do it until I can do the front too because of increasing the sag that much more on the front.
mastrblastr I'm going to try the same thing except make them adjustable. There may be no need to make them adjustable.
mastrblastr I'm going to try the same thing except make them adjustable. There may be no need to make them adjustable.
#7
Mojavekid, it's the top that has all the pressure in it. The bottom end of the shock is safe to work on. I wrapped it with a fire retardant blanket before I welded on it to make sure I didn't get any spatter on the rod. It was the cheapest rear lift kit out there!!!
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Cantbuytime
Drivetrain, Suspension & Tires
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Aug 16, 2015 09:13 PM
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