Hi Guys,

I'm hoping someone can shed some light on some electrical issues I'm having with, what I believe is, a 110 Mini Hummer ATV. I bought this last week as a non-runner, with the engine turning over.

When I got it home and started looking at it, the start switch and kill switch assembly was toast, the start button was missing... I got the engine turning over from crossing the starter bolts so know this works. Does not actually fire up. No spark going to the spark plug.

I ordered a kit off Amazon to replace the left switch assy, the CDI, the rectifier, the coil with spark plug housing, spark plug, starter relay, and ignition barrel. All have been replaced yesterday.

Now, given the wiring had already been hacked by the previous owner(s), its hard to tell exactly what should be where based off the existing plugs, but for the most part, I think its correct.

The first and main issue I am having is wiring the left switch assy. The new switch has only two plug connectors, where the old one had 3, so I have snipped the plugs off and wire them together directly. The number of wires for the kill and for the start button are the same on both. Currently, I have the starter button wired with the original plug as this one matched up. and the two wires for the kill switch are joined directly. When I turn the ignition key on, I get no response from the ignition switch (with the kill switch in the run position). If I flick the kill switch into the 'kill' position, it starts to turn over the engine - without even pressing the start button.

To me, that would seem like the starter button is reversed and the kill switch is reversed - so I swap the cables round on the kill switch but its exactly the same (tries to start when in kill position and completely dead in the run position). What??

Whilst its trying to turn over, I ground the spark plug to the body and there is no spark. I suspect this is probably just because of the electrical error on the switch right now though and once thats figured out, I'll get the spark. Or I hope, anyway.

Can anyone help? What is wrong here? How is it so backwards when I'm just dealing with two pairs of cables and one pair is still using the molex connector.

Thanks for reading!

George

 

Kill switch has green and Black/White Stripe coming out.

Black/White from Kill to orange and green to green/white

 

Generic parts don't fit every model, so you need to work out what each wire in your loom does and buy switches compatible with it. For example, a set of switches for an AC CDI ignition are different from a DC one. Orange and green/white wires going to the kill switch are an unusual choice of wiring colours, which indicates an unusual wiring set up, generic stuff is unlikely to work without lots of modifications.

 

Oh man, that isn't the answer I was looking for Merryman ha! Maybe I've just wasted 60 bucks on parts then... Thanks for the reply though

 

Hi Merryman/anyone else that can help,

The orange wire goes directly to the coil. So it being connected to the kill switch doesnt sound right, no?

I have tried using the orange and black/white to the ignition switch and now I do get a click on the coil with the occasional engine turnover, but still not seeing any spark. Engine turns over every time if I cross the terminals on the coil. Just rarely with the button. My battery is now at about 8v so thinking this could a factor, however the opposite side of this is if I cross the coil terminals I still get a good engine turnover...

I have had a look at the CDI and it seems to getting 12v DC power with ignition on, on the red wire.

Original setup was as follows:

Kill Switch wires -
Black out of switch to orange. Orange connects to coil.
Brown out of switch to green and pink. Green and pink to Rear brake light.

Ignition Button -
Red out of switch to black and white stripe. Black and white stripe to CDI.
Yellow out of switch to Green. Green to CDI.

Lights -
Green out of switch to white. White to front lights.
Blue out of switch to Blue. Front lights.
Grey out of switch to black. Front lights.

Do you think this could still be the switch being AC vs DC?

Right now, the brake safety, the kill switch and the rear safety switch (the cap that pulls off with a cord if the child loses control of the quad) are all open circuit so not contributing to starting/stopping the quad.

Thanks

 

A pos from ignition switch to the CDI would indicate a DC CDI set up, a neg from ignition switch to CDI would indicate an AC set up. However it looks like someone has messed up your wiring big style, so to be certain which it should be, how many wires come from stator to CDI? Honda colours for these are black/red, blue/white and (possibly) a green. I've tried to find info and it looks like the bike has a 110cc Honda Cub clone engine, if so it will probably be AC CDI and mostly use Honda wiring colours. If it is AC and you have fed it 12v pos down the kill wire, you may have already wrecked it.

 

Okay, so from the Stator I have 5 wires, which seem to be the set up the same as you described above.

Green/White - ties into the grounds
Blue/White - to CDI
Black/Red - to CDI
Yellow - to rectifier
White - to rectifier

The ignition barrel wiring:
Black/White goes to CDI. No voltage on that cable with ignition on or off (neither AC or DC voltage).

I may need to buy another CDI then - but they are cheap enough to replace. But I want to get the wiring right before I replace it ha.

Thanks so much for your help!

 

Don't know if my location is visible to you, but I live it BC, Canada. Moved here two years ago from Manchester Could have just brought it up to you to take a look at if I was still there haha.

 

I've drawn this up - this is how it was set up when I got it. Hopefully this helps!

I know very little about the electrical side of motors, as I'm sure you have gathered. But that orange cable in particular seems to be wrong, going from the kill to the coil. Thats the cable I have moved over to the switch and am now getting a click from the coil when pressed. I'm sure theres probably more wrong with it than just that though...

 

Problem is, you have mixed the kill swich up with the start button, they are often in the same unit but are separate switches. The key/ignition and the ignition switch are the same thing, the separate box on your drawing marked "ignition switch" is the kill switch, this should also have a negative going to it, the box marked starter coil is the solenoid and should have a negative to it too. Ignition key switch should have a negative going to it as well.