LT80 sandhill setup
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LT80 sandhill setup
Yeah I went out for a little today, it is only 20 minutes from my doorstep. It was pretty windy, but still a good day, little sis is grounded for grades, so the 80 stayed home. When I am doing the clutch mod, do I ave to take the complete clutch side off, or just that one little plate? Clutch side is opposite of most quads, right?
Kevin
Kevin
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LT80 sandhill setup
Originally posted by: LT80
Quadduck: Some ppl sell different weight rollers but they are for kasea/eton/etc. They are a different OD which causes a problem.
I can make you some if need be. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Quadduck: Some ppl sell different weight rollers but they are for kasea/eton/etc. They are a different OD which causes a problem.
I can make you some if need be. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Also lightening the rear clutch shoes should be done to every stock unit regardless of the mods done. That one mod will drastically improve takeoff and help keep the little motor from bogging down as bad when under a heavy load.
Jack may agree or disagree with this, but it is my opinion that there is really only 2 ways to go with these little bikes. You can mod it lightly and use the motor torque to pull a taller gear for a rider bike, or you build it to turn the rpms up and mod everything else to match it. Either way the bike is very easy to ride. Just my .02 Bubba
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LT80 sandhill setup
Hey Ron, First thing is if you dont have a gram scale go to your local office supply and buy a digital unit. I paid about $30 for one and it goes up to 5lb and also measures grams. I ended up buying an extra set of rollers and trying different combos before coming up with what I needed. I carefully removed the 3 inner rollers and cross drilled them with 1/4 bit, cleaned them up, and pressed them back into the nylon outer. Keep in mind that just a couple of grams will make a substantial difference in how the clutch reacts. I believe that was the best for our combo.
On the rear shoes, remove the rear clutch assy and disassemble (the large thin nut is LH). Take the shoes one at a time and cut the very end off just right past the shoe material (1/4 inch or so). Start conservatively and take more as needed. Weigh them to 175 grams each (stock will be over 200). That will give a moderate increase in engagement and make the bike accelerate much faster off the line.
If the bike is stock then take the head off and shave .020-.030 off of it and put a good air filter and set of Boyesen reeds on the stock cage. All of these things can be done with not much money. It will take a little bit of time, but the gains will be very noticeable.
On the rear shoes, remove the rear clutch assy and disassemble (the large thin nut is LH). Take the shoes one at a time and cut the very end off just right past the shoe material (1/4 inch or so). Start conservatively and take more as needed. Weigh them to 175 grams each (stock will be over 200). That will give a moderate increase in engagement and make the bike accelerate much faster off the line.
If the bike is stock then take the head off and shave .020-.030 off of it and put a good air filter and set of Boyesen reeds on the stock cage. All of these things can be done with not much money. It will take a little bit of time, but the gains will be very noticeable.