Sorry, I got the wrong link somehow. Here is the correct one.

http://www.buyatvsonline.com/k...-228_21.html#no-spark


Yes, we still are having the problem. Would sure like to talk to someone knowledgeable about it. If you are willing, e-mail me your phone number, and I we will call you on our nickel, or ask, and I will e-mail you my number.

Noel

 

Noel,

The article was pretty good as far as it went. All they did was disconnect the kill switch wiring and if that didn't solve it then suggested you start changing things. Armed with a voltmeter you can go much further.

The article referred to a five pin CDI like this one:



1) Does this look like the CDI on your quad?

2) Did you isolate the kill switch connection like the article said? BTW, it is much easier to just unplug the CDI and measure the resistance to engine ground on the kill switch line in the wiring harness. Shorted (zero ohms) equals *no* spark. Open (infinite resistance) means the spark is not being killed.

3) While you have the CDI unplugged measure the ground wire resistance in the wiring harness to engine ground. Obviously it should be zero ohms (shorted), but sometimes bad grounds are the problem. CDI's won't work if there isn't a ground.

4) Next measure the resistance of the Ignition Power connection in the wiring harness to engine ground. It should be 470 ohms or so (your meter may read 0.470 KiloOhms which is the same thing). This winding provides the power to run the CDI, which requires a much higher voltage than the 12 volts that runs everything else. Note that this power source is completely separate from the battery charge winding on the stator. It is just a coil of wire with magnets whizzing by. This tests to see if it is hooked up and doesn't have any broken connection in that coil or wire.

5) Switch over to AC volts setting on the voltmeter and measure the Ignition Power wire in the wiring harness to engine ground (CDI is still unplugged). It should be roughly 80 Volts AC while cranking. There isn't a lot that can go wrong with a coil of wire. Two things that can go wrong and still not show up in test #4 above is shorts between turns in the coil of wire, and shorts from the middle of the coil to ground. Both of these will cause drastic reduction in the generated voltage while cranking

6) Measure the AC voltage on the Timing Trigger connection in the wiring harness to ground while cranking (CDI plugged in or not - it doesn't matter). The voltage here is small. You should measure about 0.3 VAC. The actual value you get depends a lot on your voltmeter design, but you should see something. The problem is that these are very narrow pulses at a low duty cycle. Voltmeters aren't really designed to measure this sort of waveform. This too is just a coil of wire. This coil generates a signal pulse once per flywheel revolution to trigger the CDI to fire the spark plug.

7) You can also measure the resistance of this timing trigger line to ground. It should read 140 ohms or so.

8) Measure the Ignition Coil connection in the wiring harness to engine ground (ignition coil primary winding). It should be less than 2 ohms.

9) Measure the spark plug connection to engine ground (ignition coil secondary winding). This varies a lot between quads. Mine reads 8 KiloOhms (8000 ohms). These too are just coils of wire. We're looking for opens (broken wires).

That should get you started at least.

 

You want to replace Loncin 110cc.
This is the official website Loncin:http://www.lcengine.com/

I think you can get help

 

try engine replacement

there located in vancouver, burnaby.....they may not be the exact engine but are very simualer... they are crated and as of new.

neo

 

the little black bow is the cdi and it will fix your spark problem

 

all atv's from 50cc to 125 use either a 4 pin or 5 pin cdi box they are cheap and available

 

you can use any 5 pin cdi box they are all the same i did on mine.. runs good