What I am looking for is 2 fold. I have an 02 Speed that I have been TT racing for a couple of weeks now, and am looking to upgrade the suspension. I want opinions on a true TT set up, but I also want a set up that could be used for both TT and MX riding.

Basically if you guys/gals could offer me a cost no object option, and then a budget/cost conscious option that would be great.

I have a few set-ups in mind but I want to hear some other opinions as well.

Thank you for your time.

 

If money is no object go with moto a-arms and PEP zps shocks front with revalve and zps the stock rear.Rath swaybar Hoosiers for loose and American Racer tires for tacky with 15,14-38,39 gearing Lonestar\RPM axle.
Cheap route get ahold of the small zps spring and sliding collar for rear shock.Put blaster or suzuki250 shocks on front to lower it.Get some offset rims for front and spacers for rear still need swaybar and you should be able to get some used tires.
If you run against stock motored quads you will clean their clock.The 450s and big bore raptors and even some big bore 400exs have alot more top end so the tighter the course the better.
Good Luck Have Fun

 

I just put AFCO shocks all the way around my TT banshee. I feel they are the best value for the money. The ZPS's are nice pieces, but I can't justify their price. All three cannondales at my local track are on AFCO's. The valving for TT will be totally different than what you want for MX.

 

I have not heard of AFCO. Can you give me a reference/web site for them?

I am still undecided as to what I want to do. I am pretty much sold on a sway bar. Any suggestions as to which one is best? But other than that I still am open to any good suggestions.

 

I like the Rath he races and has some of the best looking stuff out there you will also be able to talk to Daryl if you have questions.He is the guy that made those KTM quads.

 

Go to www.afcoracing.com. Request a catalog. I recieved my catalog about a week after requesting it. I have the aluminum w/ single stage spring on the front, and aluminum adjustable rear. You can pick your valving and spring weights depending on your size and style (they can help you). For the take up spring, I would use the heavy one.

He is right on the tires. American racer for hard track, hoosier tri-trac on rear for loose w/ hoosiers that look like indy car wet track tires (sorry I forgot the tread name) on front. When you go to the track, pay attention to the tire grooving on the top bikes. Grooving greatly reduces heat which helps traction.

As for swaybar, I personally love the durablue swaybar. It is the most expensive though. I think it looks the best. Next to the durablue, the Lonestar is the most used. I have no experience with the rath bar, but I am sure it is a quality piece.

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask or PM me. When you get the AFCO catalog, look at the green bike in it. It was piloted by a 14 year old girl (she just turned 16 this year so she is now able to run pro class), powered by a stroked KX80, and was very fast. When her blaster wasn't running right, she entered this bike in the 200/4-stoke class and still won. Now she rides a stroked NAC'S 250R. Her and her dad (KX250 quad) are fighting for 1st place in points at the local tracks in 250 pro class.

 

I have not heard of this Rath sway bar. Who sells it, or who could I contact about it?

I ordered the Afco catalog. I also checked out the prices on their website. What is the great advantage, other than weight, of aluminum shock bodies over steel? All of my experience has been with road racing cars, so this whole thing is kind of new to me.

I know that weight is a bad thing, but I am not sure if the aluminum dissapates (sp?) heat better or not. Just a thought.

I was thinking about getting the Durablue sway bar as well. My buddy got to try a sway bar on his Raptor for free Saturday night, and he thought it worked pretty well, so unless this Rath is a great deal, I will probably go with that.

I'm not too concerned about tires as of yet. The tracks that we run on are mostly loamy and need a MX type of tire anyway. It is not a true flat track TT style track, so I should be okay there. But I do appreciate the suggestions.

Anyway I will quit rambling...Thank you for your time.

 

www.rathracing.com. After looking at it, I have seen it on a couple of bikes. It is just like the Durablue. The reason I prefer this style to Lonestar is the way the arms meet the torsion rod. The durablue uses a splined shaft, Rath uses hex. Lonestar uses a bolt that goes through the arm and then the rod. I have seen this bolt shear off, especially if it isn't kept tight. Other than that, all swaybars have about the same adjustability (except for rands which is not universal), and serve the purpose. I have owned 3 durablue swaybars, two of which got installed on 6 or 7 different bikes. I have yet to have any problems.

Alum vs. steel. I can't say which is better because I have never seen the steel. Everyone just seems to go with alum. Less weight and will disapate heat better.

After a couple of races, when the excitement of the shear speed is over, you will start to take notice of what the bike needs. You will be able to tell if the front end is pushing, or more likely if you have knobbies, biting too hard. For flat track, you want the front end to slide a little, and knobbies won't allow this. However, you must be careful that you don't slide too much. I race primarily on 2 tracks. One is hardpack where the American racers shine. The other is very sandy, and the tri-trac's hook hard. The hoosier front (tread K) allow good front traction. If it is a loose sandy loam, you should check out the hoosiers. Expect to drop $400 for a set of any flat track tires, though.

You will be amazed at the increased handling a set of shocks and a swaybar will give. A set of TT shocks have adjustable ride height. I can adjust my banshee from the nerfs being about 10" off the ground all the way down to 3". If the track is sticky, you want to lower the bike for lower center of gravity. If the bike is loose in corners, you raise it so it puts pressure on the outside of the tires, which gives more traction. If the front is hooking and the rear is loose, you can adjust that out also.

I am not familar with Cannondales. Do they have a link type rear suspension. If so, most guys will take the link out and run the shock direct. Sometimes this requires a new shock mount to be made up top. I had to weld a mount to my subframe. You can still run the link, but you get more traction with the direct system. I will look this Friday night if the Dale's are back at the track and see what they are running.

If you have any questions, let me know.