Well I got around today to taking the front Axel , Cv joint , Hillard Clutch and all apart today, the reason I did this is because I was hearing a snap click sound coming from the CV any ways when I got it apart I noticed a big tear in the CV boot and alot of the packing(Grease) was gone once I got the CV off it was a little stiff in moving the bearings were fetching up anyways I took the cv apart popped the bearings out cleaned it all up and repacked the CV and it seems to run freely now . My question is do you think it is allright to put back in or should I get a new one before I drive it is there an easy way to tell if it is bad ?
Like I say it seems to be moving freely now is there something else I should look at
I am conna pick up a new CV joint anyways but should I just keep it as a spare and use the one I just repacked and cleaned .

Thanx in advance guys I know someone out there in the know will have my Answers

 

Well I've been there and done that. My son's Sportsman was doing the same thing. I also took everything apart, cleaned, repacked and put it all back together. It was fine for a week or so, then the clicking got worse. I figured I wasn't going to hurt anything seeing if it would work. I figured I would try that, rather than plunking down 175.00, and not needing it. If it's bad, I'm sure you'll be able to hear it. I'm gonna have to replace mine. Hopefully you will be more fortunate.

Scott

 

If nothing is broke inside then you should be fine. If it starts to click again then you may need to replace it. When cleaning it up and repairing it look for metal grooves or slivers, you will probably need to grind them down to make for smooth action again. Just make sure you pack it full of grease, lots of grease [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Thanxs Guys I new someone out there must of done the same thing I guess I will pick-up a new boot for now and give it a try....The less I got to spend now means more go fast parts later

 

I've been there too. I would just replace the whole thing. But I know what you mean about the $175. It's rediculas!!![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img] I just bough 2 new cv joint half shafts for my blazer and paid $54 a piece for them... and that is the whole shaft including the cv joint!!!! I don't see why atv parts are soo much more expensive than car parts, especially when they are usually smaller. Just look at exhausts. You can easilyspend between $300 and $500 in just a headpipe and silencer for an atv. Then you look at an automobile exhaust. A complete flowmaster duel exhaust is around $300. And there is a lot more material involved in that. Sorry, just had to vent[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]

 

Where are finding a joint for your atv at? The left front cv joint on my 250 Explorer just shreded last weekend with no warning at all. I called the dealer when they opened first thing tuesday, first I had to convince them that it was indeed a 2000 and then that it was a 250 Explorer. I was informed that I was the only person in town that had ever called looking for parts. After a few more minutes they said a joint wasn't listed, that I had to get a whole axle for the meager price of $377. I called a shop in town that we use for rebuilding CV axles in cars and they told me they can get the joint from a company in Illinois that builds them for the manufacturers and it would cost me just under $100. In the mean time they came and picked up my axle and joint remains and rebuilt it for $30. That was a little more to my liking.
O.P.

 

Its not the material we are being charged for its the R&D, they need to recoop their costs somewhere and this is how they do it. They soak us for any OEM part they can, I wonder if finding an automotive axle shaft would be worth while as they are way cheaper and probably stronger.

 

OP,
I wonder if that shop would give you a part number?