I had been reading up on how to remove these primary clutches. It seemed that a lot of you guys use the 3/4in fine thread bolt trick. I am trying to do this and I can't seem to get my clutch to pop off. I assume the part That I am threading into is actually a part of the clutch. By looks. It appears to be the crankshaft. It kind of fools you visually. I bought 2 grade 8 bolts to do this trick. At the moment I keep tightening the big bolt but the clutch is still attached.

Bad part is. Is that I am pretty sure I boogered up the crank threads way down in there. I think my long skinny grade 8 bolt that I put in there might have been a little too fat. No worries at the moment. Yea it sucks but first ting is first. I need to get this clutch off so I can get to the threads of the crank. I see the bolt I put in there but it looks a little wedged. It isn't coming out without this clutch being off.

Leave it to me to make an easy job hard.

 

Ohh I almost forgot. How do you guys get this off without spinning the motor over?

 

WOOOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOO I got it. Damn that thing was in there. And I didn''t booger up the threads. YEA.. The grade 8 bolt that I put in there to take up the slack bent. It leterally cracked at the thread. Now I can take off my back cover.

Now that I got it off. How do I go about installing it. Do I set it back on there and use the long bolt that I took out and simply torque it?

Thanks
Ryan

 

Glad you were able to get the clutch off. You are correct just use the bolt to reinstall clutch and torque to specs!

 

how long of a bolt do i need? does it help to put a little bit of grease on the end of it to get the hydrolic(spelling) effect? when taking it off do u just turn until u cant turn then tap it with a mallet? when reinstalling do u just tighten it until u cant then take the bolt off or is there a torque specification for the whole clutch itself?

 

The trick to taking those off is to use a hammer(brass if you own a hpd clutch remover) and smack the bolt a few times(lightly, or harder until it loosens) and keep tightening the bolt until it finally pushes it off. The next trick is to put a little never seeze on the bolt when you put it back together, and to take some emery cloth and smooth the shaft out too.

When removing do as I said above, tighten and tap, until it comes off. It also helps to put a bar in the clutch so it wont turn. When you put the clutch back on, you must torque it down, I can't remember the specs though.

 

FYI fellas, never a good ida to smack the removal tool withat hammer, it shocks the crank, and not good idea. Have seen many cranks snap the output stub clean off the crank from shocking the crank to remove cluthces. Worst of all, it usually doesnt break instantly, it will snap when the clutch is turning about 6000rpm, and take a piece of belt housing and ur leg with it. just hold the clutch with a strapwrench and keep cranking on the removal tool till it pops off. it sometimes is on there good, but will always pop off. dont stick a bar through the clutch, it is a balanced unit, this will send it out of balance and cause engine damge in the fulure. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
to install, use the original bolt that was holding it on, clean the crank with some emery cloth, put on the clutch and torque the bolt to 48 ftlbs.


good luck.:-)

 

u guys can usually get the proper puller on ebay for about 20 bucks as aposed to the 48 from the dealer

 

rmkcac700.....I have an HPD clutch puller, and it does work. It is the proper thing to use, and believe me, if you don't tap it, you would end up ruining your clutch, or stripping it out. Sometimes you have to put extreme pressure on it(maybe only on hopped up quads, maybe they get hotter, and seals it on or something), but mine needed tapped. I wouldn't be afraid to tap on it(tap being the word, still with a brass hammer). My quad ran at high rpms and no problems from it. But a suggestion, so you don't have to tap it, is to clean it like I said before, and use a little never seize.

 

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