u joints
#11
Sorry I have not gotten back to you. I tore a CV Boot on My 600 and the guy who works on it for me told me if I would bring it to him over last weekend I could get it back by wednesday so we could ride this weekend. As soon I get it back I'll check and let you know..
#12
Thanks, over the weekend i went ahead and did it, works great, thanks again.
I wrote something yesterday labeled "suspension lock " or something that includes you.
mostly about advice i've gotten here.
Deerkiller
I wrote something yesterday labeled "suspension lock " or something that includes you.
mostly about advice i've gotten here.
Deerkiller
#13
I read your post about the mods you did. When I have the switch engaged, I am still able to toggle through the trip odometer, and other things controlled by the override switch. Don't know what would be different. Glad you got it to work.
#15
Frontier FAQ post on the front and rear prop shaft U-joints states that the NAPA # 1501 ($8) was for the rear prop shaft U-joints and Federal Mogul # 338 U-joints is for the front prop shaft (2002-03 sp600/700 machines).
The u joints are the same front /rear now since '04 i beleive.
I bought the the Auto Zone # 10027 ($10) that was wrongly crossed to the ref NAPA # 1501 and the U-joint caps are too big.
I ended up getting the PDQ # 1-0170 that crossed to the # 338 at a Car Quest store as the # 1501 and # 338 was not available at most the other places including NAPA, it is special order only.
Apparently some of the stores more in the rural areas that carry implement replacement parts carries them like the Car Quest store I went to.
The rear prop shaft U-joint correct cap diameters are .938" and the distance between the cap base (clip area) or yoke ears is 1.500".
The # 1501 and # 338 are both listed with these dimensions.
---------------------
Old (original) rear prop shaft U-joint that is closest to trans and yoke measurements*.
-Yoke I.D. is .938" (15/16ths)
-Old U-joint caps O.D. is .938"
-distance btwn the cap base (clip area) is 1.500".
-Old U-joint caps end to end distance is 2.300"
-Roll (spring) pin Dia. .312" (5/16)
-Spline hole for roll pin .310"
New U-joints (Auto Zone # 10027, wrong cross to NAPA # 1501 ) that are too big measures.
U-joint caps O.D. is .985 (63/64ths).
U-joint caps end to end distance is 2.510"
*all measurements are approximate with a dial caliper on used and new parts for a 2002 sp700.
My rear prop shaft U-joints nearest the trans were shot bad and the one nearest the rear diff. seems to be good and tight still.
It all came apart real easy with an air hammer (roll pins) and the rear differential did NOT need to be slid back for clearance.
regards,
Jim P
The u joints are the same front /rear now since '04 i beleive.
I bought the the Auto Zone # 10027 ($10) that was wrongly crossed to the ref NAPA # 1501 and the U-joint caps are too big.
I ended up getting the PDQ # 1-0170 that crossed to the # 338 at a Car Quest store as the # 1501 and # 338 was not available at most the other places including NAPA, it is special order only.
Apparently some of the stores more in the rural areas that carry implement replacement parts carries them like the Car Quest store I went to.
The rear prop shaft U-joint correct cap diameters are .938" and the distance between the cap base (clip area) or yoke ears is 1.500".
The # 1501 and # 338 are both listed with these dimensions.
---------------------
Old (original) rear prop shaft U-joint that is closest to trans and yoke measurements*.
-Yoke I.D. is .938" (15/16ths)
-Old U-joint caps O.D. is .938"
-distance btwn the cap base (clip area) is 1.500".
-Old U-joint caps end to end distance is 2.300"
-Roll (spring) pin Dia. .312" (5/16)
-Spline hole for roll pin .310"
New U-joints (Auto Zone # 10027, wrong cross to NAPA # 1501 ) that are too big measures.
U-joint caps O.D. is .985 (63/64ths).
U-joint caps end to end distance is 2.510"
*all measurements are approximate with a dial caliper on used and new parts for a 2002 sp700.
My rear prop shaft U-joints nearest the trans were shot bad and the one nearest the rear diff. seems to be good and tight still.
It all came apart real easy with an air hammer (roll pins) and the rear differential did NOT need to be slid back for clearance.
regards,
Jim P
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