Chopper Bill or anyone with a knowledgable guess...
#1
Last Sunday I let a friend borrow my 335 just for a minute or so, well, he decides to take it for 20 minutes or so. Anyway, to make a long story short, he was driving and the stud connecting the A-arm to the hub sheared off and the front drive shaft jerked out and the front tire flew out of whack and the A-arm itself is loose. Now, my question: How much (guestimate) would it cost for my dealer to replace the swiveling stud and reconnect the drive shaft and boot? I haven't the time nor the patience to fool with it. Every time I think about having to fix it,the thought of getting a Rancher sounds better and better.
#2
No idea on cost, just some advice. If the A-arm itself is loose, you better figure on adding the cost of new A-arm bushings. They have been known to crack when hitting something HARD with the front end. It almost sounds like your friend hit something. I never heard of the ball joint stud shearing off before. Then again, it could have been defective, and when it went, the A-arm slammed into the ground, cracking the bushings. If the bushings are loose, plan on fixing it before you drive it too far so you don't screw something else up worse.
#4
Could be, I don't know. The only 6x6 machines I know of were pure work machines that weren't driven aggressively enough to break anything on the chassis.
Either way, this is still the first 4 wheeled Polaris I have heard of that had the ball joint stud shearing off. Never know, it could have been defective or had a hairline crack.
Either way, this is still the first 4 wheeled Polaris I have heard of that had the ball joint stud shearing off. Never know, it could have been defective or had a hairline crack.
#5
Have no price book at home so cant acuratly quote prices. My guess is the boot kit and ball joint about $20 each. Last time we had a CV joint come apart while it was rode it screwed it up. Cost about $200 plus for the CV joint and shaft. I also have never seen a ball joint just break. I would guess your friend had something to do with it and maybe should help with repairs. Labor shouldnt be more than 1 1/2 hours.
#6
Thanks fella's. My only guess would be that the key worked loose allowing the nut to move down the stud causing the A-arm to place stress at a vulnerable point;ultimitaley causing the stud to shear off.
#7
I agree with Bill...I'd be asking my "friend" for the truth. I've seen 'em flipped off in 10ft gulleys and not have as much damage as that.
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#9
I let my "friend" as you say slide on this one. I went ahead and inspected everything and the A-arm was was just loose on the frame so I tightened it. I reinstalled the old boot because it was unscathed and the ball joint still had enough threads to run a nut up snug on the A-arm. I went ahead and added a little spot-weld so it wouldn't come off, therefore I saved a few bucks without much hastle. From now on, I-and only I will ride my quad.
#10
Keep an eye on the a-arm bolts. They have a tendency to back off on their own. I beleive the manual says to replace the bolts if they are ever removed and put lock-tite on the new bolts. Also remember to give the lock-tite time to cure.
I do not know how many problems you have had with your bike, but it seems to be the norm for people to think the grass is greener on the other side whenever they have a problem. All quads have problems especially when ridden in extreme conditions. Just count your blessings and keep enjoying the smooth ride of the sportsman. If you have had many problems, disregard my previous remarks. LOL
Greg
I do not know how many problems you have had with your bike, but it seems to be the norm for people to think the grass is greener on the other side whenever they have a problem. All quads have problems especially when ridden in extreme conditions. Just count your blessings and keep enjoying the smooth ride of the sportsman. If you have had many problems, disregard my previous remarks. LOL
Greg
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