Punctured CV Boot
#1
#2
The other day I noticed that I had a hole in the left front CV boot of my 1999 Scrambler 500. I have seen in previous posts lost of complaints from folks who tried changing the boots on their own. If I had the correct clamp pliers, Is it any major undertaking? What are teh risks of limited usage till the boot is replaced?
I have been unable to locate a decent service manual, can anyone recommend a manual for teh 1999 SC and or SP 500?
Thanks
I have been unable to locate a decent service manual, can anyone recommend a manual for teh 1999 SC and or SP 500?
Thanks
#3
Don't use it until you get it fixed. Had a friend who thought he could do the same. Idiot went riding in a creek with a torn rear CV boot. Major repair costs. It just isn't worth it.
If you make the repair yourself, be very careful to get the shaft back in the joint ALL THE WAY ! There is a detent clip, and you should hear or feel it "click" into place when you put the shaft back into the joint. If you don't do this right, it will bind in the joint, and lock the wheel.
Dave
If you make the repair yourself, be very careful to get the shaft back in the joint ALL THE WAY ! There is a detent clip, and you should hear or feel it "click" into place when you put the shaft back into the joint. If you don't do this right, it will bind in the joint, and lock the wheel.
Dave
#6
#7
I to refuse to replace my boots every time they tear but I have come up with a fix for ripped boots and it works great. The items you will need are the following: A bike patch a little bigger than the tear, patch glue, CA glue or something like crazy glue, sand paper 200 grit, CV grease, and one new CV clamp, and some denatured alcohol, or contact cleaner. The first thing you do is undo one end of the clamp and peel the boot back over itself. Clean the area off with a rag making sure you get as much of the old grease as possible. Next clean the boot off on both the inside and out and use the alcohol to clean the boot off ,paying particular attention to the tear. After this is complete put some CA glue into the tear and put it together like it was before torn. Some fumes in the form of white smoke should very should soon start to appear ( WARNING : DO NOT get CA glue on your hands or in your eyes ). Let this stand for about 5 minutes so and the tear bond to itself creating a good seal. After this is done unfold the boot so it looks like it normally would covering the CV joint. Now apply the bike patch from the outside ensuring you rough the area up with the sand paper and follow the gluing instructions for the patch. once the patch is on and dried in place put a bead of CA glue around the outside of the outside patch after all of these components are dry refill your joint with CV grease and install your new clamp. Get on your bike and start to ride. I did this repair on my bike 2 years ago and have not had a problem with it, still holding up. The reason I had to do this repair is because I live so far up in Northern Canada it takes a couple of months to get a part. Just for note it was an ATV mechanic who told me this repair.
I found this off of a ATV News Group hope it helps!
99 Sportsman 335
K&N Air Filter
Warn 2000 lb. Winch
Dirt Devil AT's
Moose CV Boot Guards
I found this off of a ATV News Group hope it helps!
99 Sportsman 335
K&N Air Filter
Warn 2000 lb. Winch
Dirt Devil AT's
Moose CV Boot Guards
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#8
Well I AM fairly mechanically inclined, but I think for 55 bucks, I might just take it to the dealership.
I have not replaced a cv boot, but learned how to do it the hard way when I replaced the A-arm rod on the Scrambler. You shouldn't have to mess with the bearings at all, unless you just want to take it apart, and clean it up. I couldn't help you with that.
The only hard part is getting the shaft back into the joint properly.
Dave
I have not replaced a cv boot, but learned how to do it the hard way when I replaced the A-arm rod on the Scrambler. You shouldn't have to mess with the bearings at all, unless you just want to take it apart, and clean it up. I couldn't help you with that.
The only hard part is getting the shaft back into the joint properly.
Dave
#9
The only special tools you will need are boot clamp pliers. Don't worry about bearing preload, you don't have to take them out.
Just take off the old boot clamps, pop the bottom ball joint apart (block the front end up first), and pop the joint apart. There is a spring clip holding the shaft in the joint and it will take a little force to overcome, but it will pop apart. Take the old boot off, put the new one on the shaft. Grease up the CV joint. Slide the new boot far enough up the shaft to see to line up the shaft into the joint. Push it toghether until the spring clip 'pops' into place. Slide the boot into place & put the ball joint back together loosely, making sure the shaft stays locked in the joint. Re-clamp the boot & tighten the ball joint & you are ready to ride.
Just take off the old boot clamps, pop the bottom ball joint apart (block the front end up first), and pop the joint apart. There is a spring clip holding the shaft in the joint and it will take a little force to overcome, but it will pop apart. Take the old boot off, put the new one on the shaft. Grease up the CV joint. Slide the new boot far enough up the shaft to see to line up the shaft into the joint. Push it toghether until the spring clip 'pops' into place. Slide the boot into place & put the ball joint back together loosely, making sure the shaft stays locked in the joint. Re-clamp the boot & tighten the ball joint & you are ready to ride.
#10
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