I followed your suggestion and pulled out one of the two shims and the belt sits about 1/8" above the sheaves in the driven clutch. Deflection is now close to spec.

I did remember to put the preload in - I marked the sheaves before I took them apart so I wouldn't forget. I used a woodworking quick clamp to hold them in place while I put the clip back in. Not a lot of clamping pressure but it fits between the vanes.

I gave it a quick run in the street with the cover off so that I could see the clutches moving in and out and they seemed to be moving smoothly. Most of the movement was in the front clutch. Drive clutch had to move in about 1/2 to 3/4" before the quad moved but it seemed in line with the revs. I need to get it out on a trail to see how much it's improved (if any).

What controls the downshifting? When I'm riding along on a flat dirt road around 40 and then get to a hill it just bogs down - I'm lucky to keep it between 15 and 20. It's like riding a bicycle and then forgeting to change to a lower gear when you get to a hill. Once on the flat again it runs up to full speed with no problems. No sputtering so I think the carb is ok.

I know it's only a 325, but it can't keep up with my buddys Suzuki 250 Ozark going up hills. It's not like I'm trying to race 700's.

Thanks again for the insight.

 

I have a 330 that acted like that and I changed the front clutch spring to a EPI pink and it did wonders.

 

FTWFLH is the man. Also increase the tension on the secondary 1 position. this will increase backshift. These things are completely tuneable, don't be afraid.

 

You can also run the secondary spring from a 500 Scrambler or the Aaen blue (I really like this one)