320 is the area code. I will call around 8:15 your time or shortly before or after.

Thanks

 

along with that you can even check to see if the belt is bouncing between the two wheels when you give it some gas your belt maybe streched to much.

 

ok. Did some more diggin around in the clutch area and pulled the outer plate off. The clutch moves in and out freely. I also checked the bushing where the belt rests on and that moves in the clockwise direction freely. It seems that my clutch is working properly????? I posted some more pictures of the clutch when you guys get a chance http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/ii267/tjjarousek/ I was thinking about it and when I bought this atv about a month ago. I did notice it was hard to shift into gears. I did check the front motor mount and it seems to be in tact. Could it just have shifted? When the clutch sheeves are pushed together as you can see in the picture - it seems like the drive clutch is quite a bit further in than the driven clutch. It this right?

 

As the primary closes the secondary opens and stays in line with each other.
Does the primary open all the way? does the belt rest on the one way bearing with .0020 on each side?
Start it in park and look into the primary as it idles is the belt still centered between the sheaves? When idling in park the secondary should not be turning.
If the belt is rubbing on either side of the sheave it will cause the secondary to turn and be hard to shift.
If it not centered something happened to change the alignment, thus a broken motor mount. You need to pry between the frame and motor and try to seperate the front lower mount if its good move to the top mount and check it. The other 2 mounts are under the rear of the engine. You must check them this way you can not just look at them and give it a little wiggle.
This is why some Polaris shop even miss this.
Let us know what yuou find.
NO !!!!!!!!!!!!! points!

 

Looking at this pic it shows me the weights are not returning to the "IDLE" position caused by the bushing underneath it has moved out what looks like approximately 1/4 inch. The clutch needs removed and tore down further and fix the problem. Theres a lot of rust on that thing as well. It needs some TLC. The bushing(or bearing as Polaris calls it on their parts page) 3585712 has moved causing the machine to not disengage all the way.


http://i266.photobucket.com/al...jarousek/100_0223.jpg


Look at this. This is the bushing I'm referring to.

http://i273.photobucket.com/al...94_harley/100_0223.jpg

 

Ok. I will check all the motor mounts with a pry bar. I wasnt sure if that bushing was in the right spot or if it had moved. It looks like it has been there for a bit based on the corrosion. Are the heels or levers on the clutch suppose to touch the "spyder"( I believe that is what it is called) when it is fully released. I noticed there is about a 1/8 inch gap between the levers and the spyder when it is fully released which may explain the blue bushing being in the wrong spot too. Also, to get at that bushing, I will need the cluch puller correct?

 

mark, watch this video and it will give an idear on what your looking at and what to do .

 

Here is an update for you guys. I was able to pull off the clutch and examine it further. The clutch is in pretty bad shape. There were some pressure cracks and some serious wear on the outer sheave. This is why the blue bushing in the picture was pushed out. Looks like I need a new clutch. Thanks for all your help guys. I really appreciate it.

Tony

 

At least now when you pay for a whole clutch assembly, you'll know that you actually needed it.

Let us know how it works out for you Tony.