2000 polaris scrambler 500 AWD problem PLEASE HELP!!!
#1
Hello, well, i jack up the atv on an atv jack and put her in AWD and then the AWD light comes on and 3 wheels spin. the front driver does not spin. i just bought the quad and the front passenger axle has been replaced, i dont know if that has anything to do with it or not. also, the front driver axle does spin. i think there is something wrong with the clutches in the hub but my father seems to think it is more of a wiring problem. please help. the AWD light DOES LIGHT
#3
yeah, iv'e noticed on a lot of other forums to check the hub fluid, i know you need it so you dont seaze the bearings but what other reason is there?
#4
the fluid also makes the hilliard clutck work smoothley so it engaes 4x4 i think it hasto be be light oil type f thansmission fluid or polaris hub oil i know if the fluid level is hi or low 4x4 dose not work right
#5
thanks. its 12:10am so i wont be doing anything until tomorrow but i was trying to get some ideas. im pretty sure its not the wiring because the whole quad is clean and i had all the plastics off of it and everything looked ok. i will drain the fluid and refill it in the 3 o'clock position with atf. but no matter what gear (foward neutral reverse) and or with or without the reverse overdrive on it doesnt work so i think you might be right.
#6
i also hade a problem of only 3x4 it turned out that the ignishion key had turned back a bit not far enough to shut the atv off but the 4x4 did not work right hope you get it fixed o and make shure you use type F atf the regular atf will not work
#7
The fluid should be clean and the book calls it to be filled at the 4 O clock position. The job is so quick and easy I change it 2x a summer.
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#8
If clean fluid does correct the problem, a few common problem causes you can check (a service manual is a good tool to own) :
1) Electromagnet (coil magnet) - unplug connector to the side you are having problems, using a multimeter reading resistance, you should get around 25 Ohms reading the 2 wires going down to the magnet
2) Hub nut torque - should be about 10 to 12 ft/lbs - this is critical to keep unnecessary wear on the armature plate.
3) Armature plate - the armature plate (flat "washer" with 3 tabs behind hillard clutch) - should be flat, no edge curls or worn grooves.
1) Electromagnet (coil magnet) - unplug connector to the side you are having problems, using a multimeter reading resistance, you should get around 25 Ohms reading the 2 wires going down to the magnet
2) Hub nut torque - should be about 10 to 12 ft/lbs - this is critical to keep unnecessary wear on the armature plate.
3) Armature plate - the armature plate (flat "washer" with 3 tabs behind hillard clutch) - should be flat, no edge curls or worn grooves.
#9
yeah, the hub fluid didn't do it. when i went to change the fluid there was nothing to drain! it was bone dry, so i out some valvoline atf type fa in it and nothing, so it looks like ill be taking apart the hub now...
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