I noticed the water pump weep hole is dripping, after trail riding last weekend. Do I have to pull the engine to fix the water pump seal? It looks like i should be able to get to it if I remove the plastic foot rest on the right side. Or, does the engine sit to low in the frame?

 

You need the w/p seal removal tool to do the job right without damaging the water pump shaft .. Too many people have done this with screw drivers and pliers and the engine has to be split when they bend/damage the shaft. New Polaris Water Pump Seal Puller Removal Tool Sportsman 500 ATV 2872105 | eBay $145 for this tool for a one time job,best to just have some one pull and install the new seal for about half this price. You can then button it up and finish it yourself at home.

 

That's an interesting looking tool. Is the oil pump seal in that area? I'm assuming that seal can be damaged also if the water pump seal is removed/installed wrong? From the pictures i've seen the water pump shaft looks like it is only about the size of a pencil.

 

Here is the use a screw trick to remove it. Untitled Page

Scroll down to " Southtexsportsman's" post.

 

It's not damaging a water pump seal that's already leaking,but damaging the shaft if you're not careful.The oil seal is behind the w/pump seal and can be removed with a long screw and gently pulled out.. If you try this on the water pump seal itself and with pliers you stand a good chance on bending the thin combination oil pump/water pump shaft. Then the engine has to be torn apart to replace this shaft. I've had to replace several at the shop from people that tried this,plus have encountered several on the forum that have done the same thing. I love short cuts same as anyone else,but not on the water pump seal. Either get the tool or pay some one to pull the old seal and install a new one or take a chance on spending hundreds of bucks if you have to split the engine!

 

I'm either going to buy the tool or let somebody else mess with it. No shortcuts for me. With my luck, I would end up bending the shaft.

 

Does anyone know where I can buy one of those seal puller tools here in the UNITED STATES? The only one I can find is the one that Old Polaris Tech listed in his earlier post, and that one is up in Canada. I want to find one here in the USA to buy, but can't find one searching the internet anywhere. And what are the benefits of switching to the aluminum impeller over the factory one? Will the aluminum one circulate more coolant and help the engine stay cooler? Or will the factory impeller be just fine. I plan on replacing the old impeller with a new one also.

 

No harm in going to an aluminum impeller. They'd be less inclined to be damaged from melting from heat and cavitation like the plastic ones are,but as far as circulating better,haven't heard any pros or cons. As far as the tool you can get it here at RV Service Tools located in New York.Water Pump Mechanical Seal Puller But before you spend the bucks on this tool for probably a one time use,call a local shop and see what they'd charge to pull and install the seal along with the oil seal if you brought it in,had the cover and impeller off and that's all you wanted them to do.Might be less than the cost of the tool. Shops spend thousands of $ on specialty tools that most times just aren't practical or worth it for the home mechanic.

 

Getting ready to put my water pump seal assembly back together FINALLY.
I've got a question about impeller nut torque. After doing some research I found out the max torque on the impeller nut is 80 inch pounds. My inch pound torque wrench's lowest setting is 120. If my calculations are correct 80 inch pounds equal 6.6(?) foot pounds. Well, my foot pound torque wrench's lowest setting is 10 foot pounds.
How critical is it to have the exact torque on the impeller nut?
I bought a new self tightening impeller nut to replace the old one. And got an aluminum impeller to replace the old plastic one. If you over tighten the nut, wont the back of the impeller grind against the engine block? And if the nut isn't torqued tight enough, wont it fall off in the water pump housing and wreck things?

 

I always torqued to 7 foot pounds after using some blue(medium) locktite on the threads.This is pretty critical on this and if you have to you can rent a good inch pound torque wrench from most good auto houses with just a deposit that can go that low. 10 foot pounds is kinda stretching it..