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Sportsman 500 bypass ebs

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Old 10-31-2018, 07:19 AM
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Default Sportsman 500 bypass ebs

2000 sportsman 500 carb with ebs.

dont need or want the ebs.

To bypass could i:
1. get a non ebs belt?
Or
2. Could i add washers inside of the secondary to open it up to loosen belt tension of the current ebs belt? Current ebs belt rides approx 1/4” above secondary, tight belt tension.

would either of these elimate the function of the ebs or do i need to get a non ebs drive clutch?
 
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Old 10-31-2018, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by mopar4u
2000 sportsman 500 carb with ebs.

dont need or want the ebs.

To bypass could i:
1. get a non ebs belt?
Or
2. Could i add washers inside of the secondary to open it up to loosen belt tension of the current ebs belt? Current ebs belt rides approx 1/4” above secondary, tight belt tension.

would either of these elimate the function of the ebs or do i need to get a non ebs drive clutch?
1 Belt alone wont accomplish what you want.

2 Dont think washer will do it either because the driven(secondary) clutch is built different than a non ebs secondary clutch.

Honestly I think the only way to do it right is replace BOTH clutches. The EBS belt has a different part number than non ebs, but it will work in the non ebs style.

Ive always wanted to try this though, to try and do what you want. Leave the rear clutch alone but disassemble the drive clutch and remove the rollers and springs in the "EBS portion of the clutch) In theory, in my opinion, it MIGHT work, but havent ever tried it. One other problem if you wanted to attempt this, is there are special tools needed to disassemble the drive clutch to get the "EBS" portion of the clutch. 1520231 CLUTCH,DRIVE,1-WAY,HLRD
Inside this part(cant be seen in the pic) there are rollers and springs(6 I think if memory serves) They act like a "1 way clutch" and thats what lets the ebs work.


 
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Old 10-31-2018, 03:12 PM
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Isnt the non ebs belt longer and no grooved than ebs belt? My thinking is that the longer belt without the grooves wont ever be affected by the drive clutch one way bearing. Same concept with adding shoms to the secondary to make belt tension less so it wont ride in the grooves.
 
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Old 10-31-2018, 03:35 PM
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Harley is correct in saying you need to replace both clutches to get rid of it. find some scrambler clutches from a 500. it has been tried in the past by others and failed to work. as far as the belt goes you would loose a lot and most likely have slippage because of its not a correct fit to the clutch sheaves..
 
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Old 10-31-2018, 11:26 PM
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I agree with 94harley and stendori that you need to replace both clutches.
 
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Old 11-01-2018, 10:44 AM
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I phrased my question poorly, sorry. Would any of my first two options prevent the belt shifting towards a sheave creating creep/hard shifting?
 
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Old 11-01-2018, 11:55 AM
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Probably not but there is hope still. Creeping issues on that particular clutch can(sometimes) be remedied by doing work on the drive clutch. Special tools will be needed to get it apart to do it though.

I posted this on another thread in 2007 so i copied and pasted instead of rewriting it.


I have seen a lot of ebs models have this problem. There could be other issues but without seeing the machine I cant tell. Anyway what is going on is there are two washers in the ebs clutch(the one way drive clutch) that can get worn, a brass one or the fiber one can get ruined and be completely gone. If your belt shreds, belt threads can tear this fiber bushing out. It can wear out on its own, etc. What happens is the one way clutch has too much side play. When the belt comes off the inner clutch face it needs to physically move away from the face to allow the one way clutch to do its job(which is allow the driven clutch to stop turning, or slow way down to almost a stop). If there is too much side clearance the belt will push the one way clutch toward the left side but won't pop off the clutch face causing the driven clutch to turn. Therefore making it hard to shift, creep, and a lot of times the machine will pop through the carb(if applicable). It's very similar to having the idle set too high(harder to fix though)

Ok to fix it you need access to the special tools to totally tear the clutch apart. Not just get to the spring and buttons, I mean tear it completely apart. Sometimes you can just replace the brass(i think it's brass) washer and the fiber washer, reassemble and you will be ok. Sometimes if there is too much wear on the inner clutch face you are going to have to completely replace the clutch. A lot of times you can fix it this way. Bear with me I will try to make this understandable.

Depending on how much play there is in the one way clutch part of the drive clutch and how much wear is on the clutch face i have done this. Order 2 fiber bushings and possibly the brass one. I cut one of the fiber bushings to the same size as the brass one. I then in stall the new uncut fiber bushing on the clutch, the one way clutch, the cut fiber washer, the brass washer, and the cap. Reassemble the clutch and see if you can turn the one way clutch by hand. If you can, reinstall the clutch, make sure the alignment is correct, problem solved. It's my experience that if there is no side movement in the one way clutch and you can still turn it by hand it works as good if not better than new. Never had any problems after doing this.

If it doesn't make sense, get a pic of the clutch and it might help. I'm not sure how many people have access to all the tools so this fix may not be feasible but it does work well. Also, this fix is for the drive clutches that have the grooved one way clutch assemblies. The newer ones are smooth now and I haven't had to tear any down yet so I don.t know if it would apply to them. Hope this helps out.
 
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