By putting more tension on the driven clutch you are increasing the pressure against the sheaves. You only need enough pressure to get belt grip and the right amount of backshifting. The more backshifting, the more grip and tension you will need. You need to compromise here and get just the right amount. Anything more will cause more tension which overheats the belt causing more problems than it solves. Do not adjust the driven clutch to gain rpm, adjust the drive clutch to do this.

 

What would be a reason to change the way the driven clutch is setup? Spring, helix, ect. I would think there are times that it would need some type of change to work as needed. There are different setups for the 500 DUSE and HO. I would bet the scram 500 and 400 use a different setup too.

 

There are lots of reasons to change the driven clutch. For starters, some of us hate EBS and have removed it as a detriment to good all-around performance. A roller secondary does an excellent job enginebraking and is far superior in backshifting. Also, one may want just better backshifting and this is a good way to accomplish that. Also there are several reasons to change the helix, depending on the performance needs.

The factory only comes out with a very mediocre, middle of the road setup that usually suits no one that rides hard at all. If you are a putzer, it's fine, that's how the factory sets them up. You may want a setup for heavy pulling or plowing because of belt slip. For drag racing, for hard tril riding, etc. There are lots of reasons to change the driven from factory specs.

Polaris does not set their sleds up that conservative from the factory, in fact, all their performance sleds have rollers as well as other aggressive setups. Sure everyone modifies them also, but they are better than we get with stock atv's.

Some people weight more than others, by 50 - 75 lbs., that's a reason. Anytime you make changes in the operating range of the engine by performance modifications, you "must" make some changes in clutching to accommodate those changes.

 

I know the whole story behind WhiteCity's post because I know the man. I have even rode the quad before and after he changed the weights. For the most part he likes the heavier weights because the engine doesn't have to rev as high to engage the clutching. I think one of the things he doesn't like now is after the quad is moving. If he gooses the throttle while he's moving, it doesn't rev up high enough to get a good pull. He lowered his engagement but also lowered everything else too.

So, he likes the engagement point. What he doesn't like is how soon the primary clutch reacts after the quad is moving.


The question is then, how do you lower your engagement rpm without changing anything else?

 

I messed around with my secondary {driven] clutch positions on my 01 scrambler 500 2x4. The stock setting was 1/1 on the spring. Without really understanding the clutch system I decided to try some different settings.. first i tried 1/2, 1 on outer and 2 on inner. With this setting it seemed like I had better low end power {the front end raised with ease} but I could hear the belt slap the case on the backshift. Next i tried the 2/2 setting , I had good low end power and did'dt have the belt slap on backshift. The backshift was better than the 1/1 setting and i did't notice a change in middle or top range. Next I tried the 2/3 setting [ mine has 2 positions on the outer and 3 on the inner}. With this setting i get good low end , great middle range and did'nt notice a drop in top end speed. Also the backshift is excellent. The 2/3 setting seems to be the right one for my size and rideing style . I considered trying the 1/3 setting , but after reading jacks comments on heat and belt wear I think i'll just leave her at 2/3 and keep and eye on my belt for excessive wear.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]