THIS HAS HAPPEN ALL THE TIME ,DEALER DONT KNOW.I GOT IT NEW IN 1996.

 

Take it over to Heinen and Mason in Osseo. They are a member of the President's Club for Polaris and should be able to solve your problem.

Have you applied 12 volts directly to the fan to see if the fan is working?

If the fan works after this test try testing the ground circuit for the fan.

Then check out the thermostat. Put it in a pot of boiling water and use a continuity tester.

Or just bring it in @ $62.00 per shop rate hour.

You could always wire up a toggle switch to turn the fan on manually.

 

Sportsmam,

Thor is on the right track. Remove the front rack (4 screws) and remove the hood. This will get you access to the thermal sensor etc.

1. Put 12V directly across the fan and make sure it runs. If it doesn't, replace it.

2. Next take the two wires off the thermal sensor located near the top of the rad. Short them together (with the key on - no need to start engine). If the fan runs, then the general circuit is OK. If it does not run then check all wiring and grounding associated with the fan circuit. Look for loose connections, corrosion etc.

3. If the fan ran correctly in step 2, then the thermal sensor could be bad. Replace the sensor with a new one (test the old one with an ohm meter in boiling water if you want). Thermal sensors can go bad with age. It happens on our ATVs and our cars.

4. Make sure the cooling system is topped up correctly. With the engine cold, open the rad cap and make sure the rad is full. Then fill the overflow bucket to the prescribed depth. Monitor the overflow bucket carefully when you run the machine to make sure the level is OK. Top up as required.

5. Make sure the thermostat is working correctly. With a machine of this age don't bother testing it. Simply install a new one. It is the safe way to go.

6. Not of least importance, MAKE SURE the exterior of the rad is flushed clean of all mud and debris. Mud gets into the rad and blocks critical airflow. With the screens in front of the rad it is often hard to see the mud and sand in there. Use a garden hose to thoroughly flush the rad. Flush water through it forwards and backwards. Spend some time at it. It often takes a good soaking to get the caked on stuff out of there. It doesn't take much mud to plug the rad. A pressure washer on the rad is not recommended as it can bend the fins and cause you more grief.

7. I would say this is not likely but ... the rad could be plugged internally from deposits. When you pull the rad cap look inside to see if the coolant is dirty or scummy. This does not mean the rad is plugged but it is an indicator that maintenance was required a long time ago. Look for white deposits on the inside of the rad. I can't recall if you can look through the cap hole and see the downtubes or not. If you can, pay particular attention to any white depoits that are built up in the area of the down tubes. This is an indicator the rad is plugged or plugging.

8. Again not likely ... Deposits may have built up in the engine and blocked critical coolant passages. A gasket may have failed and blocked, or redirected, coolant somewhere it shouldn't be. I'm reaching here.

9. Another possibility is the machine is running too lean. Lean = hot, very lean = very hot. If this were the case you would have likely noticed other running problems before it boiled.

So in a nutshell - diagnos fan and sensor circuit, make sure coolant is clean and topped up, make double sure the exterior of the rad is flushed clean, make sure the thermostat is working. These are the most likely causes of your problem.

Whatever you do, get to the bottom of it and don't ride it until you do. It is no different than a car. Overheating = blown gaskets or blown engine. If you keep driving it the $ just go up.

If you don't want to tackle it yourself try the dealer Thor suggested. If he is the one shaking his head, try another one.

Good Luck

DJ

 

Only one thing to add to the two previous posts: water pump (This model does have a water pump doesn't it?). If, after checking everything Thor and Deej suggested, you still have an overheating problem, you need to check your water pump. To check, start the engine, warm it up to operating temperature, and remove the radiator cap. You should be able to see (or feel with your finger) water flowing through the radiator - provided the thermostat is open. If no water is flowing, you probably have a water pump failure. Good luck.


Texridr

 

ABOUT 2 WEEKS AGO WE WENT RIDING AND IT WAS ABOUT 50 (A COOL DAY )IT RAN FINE FAN DIDNT COME ON.

THANKS GUYS FOR YOUR HELP.


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ABOUT 2 WEEKS AGO WE WENT RIDING AND IT WAS ABOUT 50 (A COOL DAY )IT RAN FINE FAN DIDNT COME ON.

THANKS GUYS FOR YOUR HELP.


0

 

One of most commonly missed causes of overheating is the ignition switch. If you have anything hanging off the keys, take it off. When the steering is turned the keys hit the gas cap and turn the ignition switch about 1/8". The engine keeps running but the cooling fan wont run thus causing the engine to overheat.
Just something to keep in mind.

 

SOme other things to try/consider. Either pressure check or replace the radiator cap.... I've seen, them not hold significant pressure, thereby not raising the boiling point of the coolant. As mentioned in previous posts, Water pump and thermostat are typical places to look. Is the coolant of the right mix ratio with DISTILLED water? 50/50 mix is usually great! does it boil over when the overheat light comes on? Is the fan running when it overheats? There should be a plastic plug in the overflow bottle, make sure that the little hole in the top is clear... If you access to a meter with a temperature probe, check your water temp on a fully warmed up machine (check water temp on the line going TO the engine, and the one coming from the engine.) As per Adam Dowden.. running fiberglass screen door material across the front end will help keep the mud out of the radiator... Held on with bungie cords...