Just for your info. risky 2001 SP500's were offered with EBS or Non-EBS clutches. Look here. Drive Clutch and here. Driven Clutch read #3. Not trying to make anyone mad, just getting the facts out here. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

I think I will bringing in to the shop for this one. I wanted to do all the work on my bike. But I think this one is a little over my head right now. Thanks for all your input fella's.

 

I don't want you to feel like you can't do it yourself, you just have to have all the right tools to do it and they can get pretty expensive to get all the ones you need. You can do it yourself, but like I said you have to invest in the tools and that may not be worth it just to do this one time?? I have my own tools and clutch manual, but I do alot of modifying to my machine and my fathers'. So to me it was worth the tools, but If you are not going to be using them alot, then It would be cheaper in the long run to have the service dept. do it for you. I am sorry If I scared you somehow, but you just need to know that there is alot at stake there to mess up. I am just trying to help out and not let you make a bad choice. Now, if you decide you want all the tools, let me know, I can tell you where to get them and the proper manuals and everything. You may need the clutch to be re-built, but there again you need the tools or you have to borrow them from the service man. But, then again, that may not be what is wrong after all.??

 

WOW!! Just for my own curiosity, after you take it back to the dealer, ask them if they re-alighned the engine or added washers to the rear clutch. According to the service manual and our own experiences, these are the only fixes that I know of, but I'm always willing to learn. I'm going to butt out of this one so as not to add any more confusion. I would do exactly as ncscrambler says.

 

Yes, I agree, let us know what the cause was. We can use it for future reference. It could also be the side clearance issue as in the SLP article I posted which is fixed with removing shims from behind the spider in the drive clutch, I guess shimming behind the driven clutch would also fix this, but is it the right method or is the shimming behind the spider right? I would think shimming behind the driven would upset the 1/8 offset of the clutches??? I would like to know the answers to this myself. Thanks bdog.

 

Hey NCScrambler I missed the boat on this one. I thought we were talking about a Sportsman.EB I thought was a Worker 500. The clutch systems are very simple on these machines. The only special I know you may need is to pull the complete drive clutch off. Unless your replacing it you don't need that tool. I hope bdog don't get raped by his dealer.

 

That's cool, It happens to all of us. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]