z250s
#581
Originally posted by: LTZGUY
well you could take the screw out where the oil filter is and hook a line to it then drain it back into the timing mark bolt, left side of motor, top front of the side cover. You would have to mount your oil cooler slightly higher than the return line so it will drain quickly. I would try to ask a mechanic or parts guy if catching oil there will be safe as i have not tried it yet. I will tell you this, if you put an oil cooler on an air cooled motor you might be shooting yourself in the foot.....it is designed to run hotter and if you cool the oil you could accelerate the piston to bore wear. The engine won't get to its designed temp and won't expant like it should. I would recommend just a cooling fan. I have noticed my bike is faster the hotter it is andit is slower if i have the fan on for a while. The only time i use the fan now is when the bike idles for long periods (like the way it sounds, lol) or when i'm trail riding with a slow group of people on a hot day. I put my clutches in tonight and it grabs much harder, seems to shift smoother. haven't reallt got to ride it yet, but i can't tell a big difference already. I power braked it and it just pushed the front tires while they were locked up even with me leaning way over the handle bars. I hope everyone on here has called pro-com so we can make them get the ball rolling. I guess the next thing i'm gonna do is a carb. I talked to a friend of mine who has a 450r older model and he put the newer model 450r carb on his and he said it was like night and day. not saying i'm gonna use a 450 carb, but just using that as an example of the difference a carb will make. Kinda like doin a bunch of crap to a v8 engine and leaving the stock carb on. Can't wait!
well you could take the screw out where the oil filter is and hook a line to it then drain it back into the timing mark bolt, left side of motor, top front of the side cover. You would have to mount your oil cooler slightly higher than the return line so it will drain quickly. I would try to ask a mechanic or parts guy if catching oil there will be safe as i have not tried it yet. I will tell you this, if you put an oil cooler on an air cooled motor you might be shooting yourself in the foot.....it is designed to run hotter and if you cool the oil you could accelerate the piston to bore wear. The engine won't get to its designed temp and won't expant like it should. I would recommend just a cooling fan. I have noticed my bike is faster the hotter it is andit is slower if i have the fan on for a while. The only time i use the fan now is when the bike idles for long periods (like the way it sounds, lol) or when i'm trail riding with a slow group of people on a hot day. I put my clutches in tonight and it grabs much harder, seems to shift smoother. haven't reallt got to ride it yet, but i can't tell a big difference already. I power braked it and it just pushed the front tires while they were locked up even with me leaning way over the handle bars. I hope everyone on here has called pro-com so we can make them get the ball rolling. I guess the next thing i'm gonna do is a carb. I talked to a friend of mine who has a 450r older model and he put the newer model 450r carb on his and he said it was like night and day. not saying i'm gonna use a 450 carb, but just using that as an example of the difference a carb will make. Kinda like doin a bunch of crap to a v8 engine and leaving the stock carb on. Can't wait!
I was wondering what that big bolt next to the cylinder was!! Now, there is a bolt up on the head, that if you take it out, it is just a long shaft. There is also a bolt lower on the cylinder, that if you take it out, there is aspring back behind it. I thought this was some kind of oil pressure regulator or a timing chain tensioner, but I dunno. Do you know what these are? if I were to get the oil source from the oil filter cap, I might put a filter inline so as to make sure all oil is filtered. I have a perfect spot on my Ozark to put an oil cooler!! About 6" directly above the winch is a perfect spot. It would be protected by the front grill, yet it would still get some air flow over it.
As far as running too cool, I have thought about that. Moroso and some other companies make oil cooler thermostats. I found one that had a 180 degree temp setting. When the oil is below this temp, it bypasses the oil cooler.
I just got finished installing an 8" automotive fan at the base of the cylinder. It barely fits, but it should keep things cool when it starts to get hot.
btw, I have tried power braking my Ozark. Every time it just pushes the front tires, or it lifts them just slightly, then slams them back down and almost throws me as it comes to a scretching halt!!
I found DynoJet's site where you can buy induvidual jets that are bigger than the jets available in the jet kit. I am either gonna order a few of them, or get me a bigger carb like you mentioned, and get a jet kit for that carb.
#582
Well i thought about losing bottom end with a bigger carb but i have learned a few things. my friend has a klx 110 and it had a 18mm carb stock. I ported his head, he did a 140 something cc big bore kit, cam, huge header, and a 28mm carb. I asked him if he had less bottom end and he told me it has more power at idle now than it did wide open before. I have seen a few other cases where you put what u would think is too big a carb and it runs better. I guess i'll find out....
the long pin in the side if the motor is for the cam chain tensioner slide- don't remove it. the screw with the spring is the can tensioner...it pushes on the slide to tighten the chain.
the long pin in the side if the motor is for the cam chain tensioner slide- don't remove it. the screw with the spring is the can tensioner...it pushes on the slide to tighten the chain.
#583
Good to know.
What kind of gas do you run LTZGUY?
I ask this because I think I am going to have to run race gas next week on the trip I am going on. I got the carb tuned in as good as I could. I am running the biggest jet the jet kit came with (138) and I have the needle on full rich as well. At about 1/3 to 2/3 throttle, it is still running lean!! At full throttle it feels ok, but I think it is running lean there too. I called up DynoJet yesterday afternoon and ordered a 140 and 142 jet. Hopefully they will arrive before I leave on Thursday. If they don't arrive though, I am going to have to run race gas for the weekend to keep the motor safe.
What kind of gas do you run LTZGUY?
I ask this because I think I am going to have to run race gas next week on the trip I am going on. I got the carb tuned in as good as I could. I am running the biggest jet the jet kit came with (138) and I have the needle on full rich as well. At about 1/3 to 2/3 throttle, it is still running lean!! At full throttle it feels ok, but I think it is running lean there too. I called up DynoJet yesterday afternoon and ordered a 140 and 142 jet. Hopefully they will arrive before I leave on Thursday. If they don't arrive though, I am going to have to run race gas for the weekend to keep the motor safe.
#584
Man i;m gonna be totally honest with you...There is no way your running lean. I have a 138 in mine with a cam (more air), header, headporting, (more air again) no spark arrenter in my yoshi pipe, uni air filter, open air box. I just don't see your engine running lean. I an at sea level also which also makes me need more fuel. i tried both a 140 and 143 in mine and it slows down. I stopped trying to read plugs, i think with this engine bein air cooled, it'll runn way hotter than a water cooled engine so i think the plug stays clean no matter what. if i raise my needle one notch, it misses really bad like it running lean, but it'll fool you sounding the way it does. also, why are you wanting to run race gas? Its a low compression motor and does not need it. in fact it'll make less power unless you can advance the timing more to compensate for the slower burning high octane. I know i'm shooting you down, but i'm just giving you factual info. I dynoed my car with and with out race gas and unless i pump up the timing, it made less power. in fact, my bike is faster with regular unleaded compared to supreme. anyway, my friend just bought a 500 honda foreman brand new, he told me that he could outrun me because his bike will do 58 mph. So we lined em up and i smoked his ***. he wanted to then go from a roll because his bike didn't take off near as fast as mine (manual clutch and 22" razrs) so we did it again. Same storey, i rolled away from him on topside so bad he let off after a few seconds. Months ago when my bike just had a pipe, i raced my brother in laws bike and we would be dead even. his would only go 52mph. Amazing how two identical bikes are not the same speed.
#585
I know it is running lean for one main reason. I can choke it down just a bit, and it runs better. It is weird that mine is running lean like this. I mean, the Ozark has a 25 mm carb whereas the Z250 has a 29 mm carb. So if anything, you should be running a bigger jet just from that fact, much less all the other work you have done. Granted, I have not ridden it for anything longer than 5 minutes. So it could be that after it warms up fully that it will be fine with the 138 jet. This motor has always needed more fuel than others though.
The reason I am looking at runing race gas is to cool off the combustion process a bit. If it is in fact running lean then running race gas will help to prevent detonation. But I completely agree with you. The bike will make more power on lower octane fuel. My last car made more power on race gas, but that's because the computer increased the timing from 27 degrees to 32 degrees while running 16 psi of boost.
I guess I am going to do this. I am going to get a can of Torco Unleaded Mach Accelerator (a 32 ounce can of this stuff will make 10 gallons of 93 octane into 104 octane) and take with me. I am going to ride it as soon as I get to my destination for a bit and see if it does any better after it warms up. If it doesn't, and my plug shows that it is lean, then I'll add some of the Torco just to be safe.
The reason I am looking at runing race gas is to cool off the combustion process a bit. If it is in fact running lean then running race gas will help to prevent detonation. But I completely agree with you. The bike will make more power on lower octane fuel. My last car made more power on race gas, but that's because the computer increased the timing from 27 degrees to 32 degrees while running 16 psi of boost.
I guess I am going to do this. I am going to get a can of Torco Unleaded Mach Accelerator (a 32 ounce can of this stuff will make 10 gallons of 93 octane into 104 octane) and take with me. I am going to ride it as soon as I get to my destination for a bit and see if it does any better after it warms up. If it doesn't, and my plug shows that it is lean, then I'll add some of the Torco just to be safe.
#587
Holy crap! I think i'm on to something! in 2003, artic cat had a 300cc suzuki engine on one of their atvs. Same engine as a z250 except 300cc. hmmm....the cylinder costs $250 and the piston $60...im gonna do a little more research...
#588
Originally posted by: LTZGUY
Holy crap! I think i'm on to something! in 2003, artic cat had a 300cc suzuki engine on one of their atvs. Same engine as a z250 except 300cc. hmmm....the cylinder costs $250 and the piston $60...im gonna do a little more research...
Holy crap! I think i'm on to something! in 2003, artic cat had a 300cc suzuki engine on one of their atvs. Same engine as a z250 except 300cc. hmmm....the cylinder costs $250 and the piston $60...im gonna do a little more research...
A 300 cc motor for $310? That would be SWEET!!!
btw, I did LOTS of rejetting this weekend. I tried riding with the 138. In order to prevent it from popping like crazy at anything over 1/3 throttle, I had to choke it WAY down. I then moved it up to a 140. It ran LOTS better, but I had to choke it down till it really got warmed up (like after 3 miles of riding). So I tried a 142, but it was way too rich, so I am now running a 140 jet.
LOTS of stuff happened at Mud Nationals!!! I now have a $30 nitrous kit installed, and it works REALLY good, but only for very short bursts of power. If I had to guess on power gain, I would say around 2 hp or so. It's not a whole lot, but it saved me from getting stuck a few times (it started to bog in 1st gear, so I just tapped it and it gave enough power increase to get the rpms back up again).
I ended up winching 2 4WD quads out that were stuck, I went through a water hole that swamped a 650 Arctic Cat and a Yamaha Grizzly (the ONLY thing above the water was my cooler, my intake snorkel, and my handle bars!!), and I rode through some stuff that a few 4WD quads got stuck in!!
#589
i have a borrowed z400 carb making its way to me this week, my friends bike is down so he said i could try out his carb before i buy one. I'm going to the dunes this coming weekend so i'm gonna try to get this 400ex cdi working. I also heard from a friend that when he was at a racing event his friend got his rev liminter defeated on his 300ex for 50 bucks. I'm gonna try to get in touch with him to see who he had do it. If anyone else has heard of something like this try and get me some info. Also, I had a wild hair yesterday and took my 250 out on the highway right by my house to see how fast it would go in the little distance, which i don't know how far, but its less than an 8th of a mile. I got to put it in 5th gear just for a couple secs and it did 55 before i let off. I was still pulling and I almost went farther down the road to the long straight but chickened out...too many cops pass by. the highway in front of my neighborhood is very curvy and i have seen many people wreck in the big curve trying to take it too fast so i wasn't trying to be a hero. everyone on here knows that a stock suspension z250 handles about as good as a 1980 cadillac eldorado. I'll let you guys know how the carb turns out.
#590
z400 carb will work, but will take some modifying. so since i have a borrowed carb, i'm not gonna make it work just yet. i'm gonna try to buy one. i'm winning one on ebay right now and the auction ends tomorrow so hopefully i'll win. also, i shortened the shift linkage which gets rid of alot of slop and you move the lever to shift alot less. essentially its like a short shifter on a car....works really well and shifts smoother and easier and quicker. suzuki should have done this from the factory. it also goes into reverse much easier.


