I figured since I had the carb off anyway,,,, I might as well cut the rear shock mount down like I've been pondering for weeks. I cut about an inch off and drilled another hole for the shock bolt. I have a seat height of 29inches now,,, unloaded.

Since my axle was down low draggin rocks anyway, might as well lower the frame some too and get a lower center of gravity. I don't think I'm really giving up any ground clearance either.

If you decide to do this too, make sure you drill the hole in exactly the right spot or you won't be able to get the bolt in or else the spring will rub the frame. I got pretty lucky, I only had to do a little rat-tail filing.

 

So based off you gaining approximatley an inch on your rear shock by cutting off some of the mount, would you be able to use a shock that is up to an inch longer then our 12.63" oem shock? (Assuming the shock eye is not to thick to fit in the shock mounts). Of course this would raise you back up to the original height but I was thinking it would open more possibilities for using "other" rear shocks.

Also I was thinking of the whole A-arm issue and lets say some one actual post under the "Need 250r measurements" and we find out they would bolt right up, the 250r's front shocks are 13.00" to 15.00" depending on the year you are talking about. Our oem front shocks are 11.88" so yes you would need the 250r shock to make up for the longer A-arm length (again assuming the shock eye bolts up to our frame and not be to "fat" to fit), doesn't this mess up the original geometry of the front end since one would be still using the same frame shock mount but angling the shock at a sharper angle to "mount" at the A-arm (because of the increased A-arm length). So I guess what I am wondering aren't we at square one whether your using lt250r, 300ex, 400ex or whatever front ends? Or does one create a new frame shock mount?

Sorry if it sounds like I am rambling but just thinking out loud, because I really want to do something with the front but I just am not sure what route to take to do it.

 

Well, first let me update how it rides with the shock mod.... I can slide around now like wet grass! That's what I was after. The down side.... I can't ride a wheelie to save my life! I can either flip all the way backwards or just not be able to get the front end up. No in between. I'm thinking because the tires are 2 lbs heavier and 2 inches smaller and being 1 inch lower to the ground are the reasons.

Yes, you should be able to put a long shock in the back if you cut the frame like I did. I have no issues with the back shock myself.... I just want the front a little softer, but not dive in the turns either.

Yeah, even if you find that 250 arms will bolt right up, you will still have to play around with the geometry for the shocks. That's why I have mounting holes everywhere on mine,,, it took me a few times to get it right. If you know how to use autocad, that helps a lot. I'll take a pic and post in a few minutes showing what I'm talking about.

 

Oh, btw, the 12.5 jet seems to be working ok. I did a WOT chop and my plug was perfect looking. Then I just rode around having fun for a while n the plug was a little blacker. I'm going to try the 10 pilot n see, but I think I'm going to have to change my needle one size leaner before all this is over.... Either that or add some more backpressure to my exhaust, lol.... yeah, right...

Can you believe its 75 degrees here in the middle of december??? WTF?

 

Using the outside holes makes it stiffer. A longer shock could mean going out or in, who knows how stiff they will be.... My arms can't go down anymore because of the balljoints, so the top of the shock will have to be mounted higher or the bottom of the shock will have to be mounted lower. Either way, looks like I will have to weld a new bracket.

 

......... unless I gull wing the arms,,,, then I can angle the arms lower!

 

Guys I really really need help. My motor was ticking as loud as an old fashioned typewriter .. Can you guys point out what could be blocked and what I can do to fix it before I destroy my new rocker arms and cam?

 

Also.. does anyone have the Suzuki service manual for the quadsport and what are the valve specs in that (F(U)CK the clymer valve specs!)

 

I forgot the most important part.. Do you TM28 guys have issues with it idling after the motors warmed up? if so what pilot if not what pilot?

What main (or main do you think your closest to) do you find is working best?

I'm going to reinsulate the wiring for the coil which is grounding to the jug right now on occasion. I'll see if that helps at all, then I REALLY need to clear up this valve issue before I destroy the motor and put a hole thru the piston.

I'm thinking my 250 main may be to lean and it gets hot and doesnt want to idle (also making sense due to hte valves ticking.

 

.001-.003 for intake and .003-.005 for exhaust so says the factory service manual. I just checked mine last night.