Well, I am taking some more parts off the free machine I got. I finally looked at the VIN tag and frame sticker. The sticker has a manufacturer date of 2/86 and the 10th digit of the VIN is a G. However it has the 87 and later swing arm and it looks factory, looking at it I do not think it was added by a previous owner. But, again the throttle has the light switch on it, so I am not posotive it is a hold over frame for an 87 sale either?

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>How do you know you have a LTF230G? As far as I can tell, there is no such thing. Certainly not in 1986. There is either a LT230G or a LTF230. http://www.alpha-sports.com/Parts/SA86.htm

Did you locate the vin number on the frame? Is the 10th digit a "G"?</end quote></div>

I'll check. My buddy told me it did, but I'll check myself.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: HACKMUNCH

hey guys, i know it's been awhile but i did get the carb options figuired out over the summer. the tm28 carb will work but not that well. i did test a few tm28-1 carbs and they work unbelievable, they are the same as the tm28 but have an accel pump in them. there are a tad hard to find in the US but they come stock on the drz250 bikes so you can get them from the dealer or find them on ebay. hands down the best performing carb with the stage 2 web cam. i also tested the 300ex 36mm carb too, worked very well and made some great top end power, i would have opted with the 300ex carb but it's a tad on the large (size) side so i decided to go with the tm28-1 on my race bike. i am thinking i need the stage 3 webcam, has anyone on here ran it? the stage 2 has enough duration but not enough lift for the hp#s i am looking for.</end quote></div>

I looked at the drz carb and couldn't find an accel pump. http://www.alpha-sports.com/offr/2004%20DRZ250/05.htm

The only difference I see (other than jetting) is that the drz carb has a "bell" at the back that acts like a velocity stack whereas the tm28 is just straight thru.

The TM28 will run like crap unless you jet it. Mine runs pretty well with my ultra-low resistance airfilter. A 32mm wouldn't go past 1/2 throttle unless I wrapped a plastic bag around my airfilter to cause some restriction. In light of that, I concluded 32mm was just too big.

My setup:








If you got a 36mm carb to work at all, that tells me your airfilter is WAY too restrictive!

As far as the webcam 3 goes, you'll certainly lose a lot of bottom end and its questionable if you'll gain anything on the top unless the rest of your engine is setup for it.

For high lift cams try megacycle. They have the highest in the business. However, Vince told me the ports don't flow any better with higher lifts. Ramp rate is what you want to focus on and you'll play hell trying to pry that info from the cam grinders!

Considering the bore x stroke of these engines (66x67), it makes little sense trying to get a lot of topend power. If you want topend power, get a 250x or mojave with a 74x57 or so bore n stroke. Those engines have 4 valves and a short stroke and are setup to rev out. The 230 is more like a harley. If you throw that piston up n down that LONG stroke fast enough, this might happen:

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: UGLY88

Well, I am taking some more parts off the free machine I got. I finally looked at the VIN tag and frame sticker. The sticker has a manufacturer date of 2/86 and the 10th digit of the VIN is a G. However it has the 87 and later swing arm and it looks factory, looking at it I do not think it was added by a previous owner. But, again the throttle has the light switch on it, so I am not posotive it is a hold over frame for an 87 sale either?</end quote></div>

What makes you think the swingarm wasn't replaced?

I wonder when manufacturing of the 87's began... August? My service manual said something about August 85 for the crankcase oil volume change from 1400 to 2000 ml.

Surely they didn't change the swingarm in the middle of a production year. Then again, the brake rotor was changed in the middle of 87: http://www.alpha-sports.com/satv/1987/LT230S/37.htm

 

1 more thing is that the throttle cable and throttle were left on as I said as the throttle lever housing also has the light switch on it, but on top of that the slide at the end of the throttle cable has a flat slide on it. (?) Wierd.

 

Aftermarket carb. Maybe a tm28.

 

My light switch is goofy too. I have a starter button. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img] So, I hooked the kill switch to the starter button. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] I use the kill switch to turn the lights on and the light-dim switch works as normal. Apparently, my switch box didn't have a way to turn the lights off. It was only high and low beam, kill, and starter.

I love the kill button though! Never have to worry if the kill switch is in the right spot. On electric start quads, if the kill switch is off the starter won't turn, so its easy to tell. But on the kick start quads you could be kicking for a while before you notice the switch is off.

 

That is a good idea Randy. Want to post some wire info for that. Mine is like that, I have hi low with the lights on constant, a run/stop switch, and no start button.

 

I found this on these forums a long time ago:



Just hook everything up like in the diagram and it should work. Light on/off. high/low. kill. R/Y is power coming from mag. When switch is on Gr is live. Regulator soaks up the bumps in the voltage.

Personally, I'd rather leave the lights off until I need them. Just my conservative nature.

The kill switch is just one wire coming from the cdi and going to ground kills it. You could even leave the wire dangling under the quad and touch it to the frame to kill the engine. Although, it might accidentally hit the frame while you're riding.

 

I am going to have to look at my quad when I get home, I am starting to recolect that my Hi/low switch has an off position. (?) Everything I see and read about is starting to blend together, time for coffee!