<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: atvman29

So when I get these arms an I'm cutting down the bearings, should I try to cut them so the ball joints are in the exact same spot as the stockers, or move them forward or back some? I would think as close to stock would be best.



Randy, didn't you say your front end got a little twitchy?</end quote></div>

I think as long as you are consistant with what you do to both the top and bottom a arm, you should be find and you caster should remain the same as it is with the stock a arms. I would keep it simple and take the same off both sides of the bearing.

 

No, my front got the opposite of twitchy. Mine was too hard to turn. Its because I have 23 inch front tires and 20 inch back tires and I lowered the back (who knows how much) and raised the front (who knows how much).... So, I ended up with a bad caster problem since the frame is tilted back a large degree. To solve it I cut my top balljoint part where the three bolts go thru and moved it forward a good inch. It steers easier now.

Your quad is being set up the opposite of mine with big back tires and smaller fronts, so you're more likely to have the twitchy steering. If that's the case, you'll want to move the top joint back and the bottom joint forward. If everything (tires, seat height, etc) mirrors the stock setup, just aim to keep the joints in the stock position like you said.

Try this experiment. Take a tierod off one side and try to drive around. You should be able to turn as well as drive straight, but you shouldn't be able to backup without the loose wheel going nuts. If yours acts like that, your caster is good.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: UGLY88

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: atvman29



So when I get these arms an I'm cutting down the bearings, should I try to cut them so the ball joints are in the exact same spot as the stockers, or move them forward or back some? I would think as close to stock would be best.







Randy, didn't you say your front end got a little twitchy?</end quote></div>



I think as long as you are consistant with what you do to both the top and bottom a arm, you should be find and you caster should remain the same as it is with the stock a arms. I would keep it simple and take the same off both sides of the bearing.</end quote></div>

That's what I was thinking. I'm starting to get excited now!

 

speaking of old magazines, i found the Nov.'86 issue of Dirtwheels featuring the first test ride of the Banshee.

"First test! Yamaha's Mind-boggling '87 350 Banshee: Twin-Cylinder 2-Stroke Screamer!!"

there's an ad in this issue for the Westcoast +4" swingarm for the Quadsport 230 for $209.95 from Sand Scorcher in Cali

they also test ride the '87 Quadsport w electric start & auto clutch. they were not overly impressed but still gave it points for ease of operation/fun ride.

somewhere in a box i got most of '85'86 &'87 issues

back to the future...[img]i/expressions/beer.gif[/img]

i stopped at the local zuk dealer today and ordered a oil strainer cap, oil plug, o-ring and strainer. i like Bike Bandit, they're great but i found if it's an oem part, buy local and save the shipping charges.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JustRandy

No, my front got the opposite of twitchy. Mine was too hard to turn. Its because I have 23 inch front tires and 20 inch back tires and I lowered the back (who knows how much) and raised the front (who knows how much).... So, I ended up with a bad caster problem since the frame is tilted back a large degree. To solve it I cut my top balljoint part where the three bolts go thru and moved it forward a good inch. It steers easier now.



Your quad is being set up the opposite of mine with big back tires and smaller fronts, so you're more likely to have the twitchy steering. If that's the case, you'll want to move the top joint back and the bottom joint forward. If everything (tires, seat height, etc) mirrors the stock setup, just aim to keep the joints in the stock position like you said.



Try this experiment. Take a tierod off one side and try to drive around. You should be able to turn as well as drive straight, but you shouldn't be able to backup without the loose wheel going nuts. If yours acts like that, your caster is good.</end quote></div>

Actually, I'm even front to back. I used 22" front and back.

 

I would set it stock. Try it like that, if you want to play then you can always cut some off the back side of the tops and put the cut piece on the front moving the top arm back and giving you more positive caster. To much and it will make it harder to steer but keep it tracking straight, which I think is what we all said (?)

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: MalHombre

speaking of old magazines, i found the Nov.'86 issue of Dirtwheels featuring the first test ride of the Banshee.



"First test! Yamaha's Mind-boggling '87 350 Banshee: Twin-Cylinder 2-Stroke Screamer!!"



there's an ad in this issue for the Westcoast +4" swingarm for the Quadsport 230 for $209.95 from Sand Scorcher in Cali



they also test ride the '87 Quadsport w electric start & auto clutch. they were not overly impressed but still gave it points for ease of operation/fun ride.



somewhere in a box i got most of '85'86 &'87 issues



back to the future...[img][/img]



i stopped at the local zuk dealer today and ordered a oil strainer cap, oil plug, o-ring and strainer. i like Bike Bandit, they're great but i found if it's an oem part, buy local and save the shipping charges.</end quote></div>

That's the swingarm you found on ebay, right?

I was wondering.... Do you think +4 inches on the swingarm may be too much? PG said he was going +2, do you think that may be a better idea?

I wish I still had my mags from the 80's, but they got thrown out/lost when I moved north in 1990. Not sure what happened, but I never saw them again.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: atvman29

Actually, I'm even front to back. I used 22" front and back.</end quote></div>

So, your front is higher too. Only by 1/2 inch though. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] The stock size is 21 front and 22 back.

The caster is the same for the 250S and 230. Both are 6 degrees 31 minutes.

 

So, anyone tackling my sprocket math puzzle yet? Haven't heard to much from you guys about that. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

 

Randy i think a +2 would be about ideal. +4 nice but it shifts the c.g. too much and makes wheelies a little harder. on the other hand. it's reeeeally easy to break the back end loose w just a little body english (and a handful of throttle[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img])