85 to 88 Suzuki LT230S Quadsport help.
#7981
08-16-2009, 07:13 PM
[quote=jory230;2833672]no it comes the whole way out[/quote
Well it should come out relatively easy but you should have to put some pressure on it to get it out. Even if it comes out easily I dont see that being a major problem it probably wont come out while your driving it. The clutch cable will hold it in and the pressure that the clutch puts on it will hold it in as well. I had to change my pressure plate and thrust bearing in my quad so I know alittle about the 230's clutch. The guy who had it before me must have left it in gear with the clutch held in instead of putting it in neutral.
Well it should come out relatively easy but you should have to put some pressure on it to get it out. Even if it comes out easily I dont see that being a major problem it probably wont come out while your driving it. The clutch cable will hold it in and the pressure that the clutch puts on it will hold it in as well. I had to change my pressure plate and thrust bearing in my quad so I know alittle about the 230's clutch. The guy who had it before me must have left it in gear with the clutch held in instead of putting it in neutral.
#7983
08-17-2009, 01:53 AM
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Thanks for the direction on this. Here's what I found:
I went through and inspected all the boot connections, re-tightened and checked to make sure that everything at least looked like it was all sealed up. I had the original, non rebuilt carb on it that was on it and functioning fine prior to the top end rebuild I did.
I kicked it over again and got the same result. Still getting that high pulsing idle. It literally sounds like I'm just sitting on it and cranking the throttle over and over again.
I pulled everything off from the airbox to the boot on the head. I can't get that damned thing off! I've got two cylinder heads with the boot still attached and I just can't seem to get them off. I'm hoping (guessing) that this boot is in good shape.
I cleaned all the other rubber and plastic pieces thoroughly with soap and water so they pretty much look brand new. As best as I can tell, without using a vacuum gauge, it seems like the pieces seal up tight. There doesn't appear to be a gaping leak anywhere.
Are there any other places either on the carb or the motor itself where I should be looking? The motor revs up like made and I let it go for a short while to see if I had any obvious leaks or anything - nothing showed itself.
I'm relatively mechanically inclined and have enough tools to follow just about everything in the Clymer manual, but this one is confusing me. But again, this is the first time I've done either of these procedures.
Could it have something to do with this?
For some reason, the throttle cable seems a little messed up. I'm using one that was on another 230s I had that was functioning fine previously. When I have it on this one, there's about 3/4 of an inch of play in the cable. When I spin the cap onto the top of the carb,I can pull that end of the cable up about 3/4". I have to make sure the metal end of the throttle cable is firmly place into the top of the carb. The problem is, when it's like this, I have no throttle response at all. The motor continues it's pulsing revs but I can't get the throttle to move the needle jet. My thoughts initially were that since the needle is bottomed out as it is, it should idle and I can try to adjust the cable later to pull in the slack. The other weird thing though is that when I do attempt to pull in the slack, it seems like the thumb control only moves about 1/2 way through it's rotation before it stops. On my good running 230s the throttle response is through the whole range of rotation. I'm not sure why the one I'm working with now is bottoming out/stopping so quickly.
Could I have something screwed up in the carb? It seems to act the same way on both the original carb and the rebuilt one.
If pictures would help, I can certainly try to snap a couple and attach them.
Thanks again for the help and guidance, I do appreciate it!
I went through and inspected all the boot connections, re-tightened and checked to make sure that everything at least looked like it was all sealed up. I had the original, non rebuilt carb on it that was on it and functioning fine prior to the top end rebuild I did.
I kicked it over again and got the same result. Still getting that high pulsing idle. It literally sounds like I'm just sitting on it and cranking the throttle over and over again.
I pulled everything off from the airbox to the boot on the head. I can't get that damned thing off! I've got two cylinder heads with the boot still attached and I just can't seem to get them off. I'm hoping (guessing) that this boot is in good shape.
I cleaned all the other rubber and plastic pieces thoroughly with soap and water so they pretty much look brand new. As best as I can tell, without using a vacuum gauge, it seems like the pieces seal up tight. There doesn't appear to be a gaping leak anywhere.
Are there any other places either on the carb or the motor itself where I should be looking? The motor revs up like made and I let it go for a short while to see if I had any obvious leaks or anything - nothing showed itself.
I'm relatively mechanically inclined and have enough tools to follow just about everything in the Clymer manual, but this one is confusing me. But again, this is the first time I've done either of these procedures.
Could it have something to do with this?
For some reason, the throttle cable seems a little messed up. I'm using one that was on another 230s I had that was functioning fine previously. When I have it on this one, there's about 3/4 of an inch of play in the cable. When I spin the cap onto the top of the carb,I can pull that end of the cable up about 3/4". I have to make sure the metal end of the throttle cable is firmly place into the top of the carb. The problem is, when it's like this, I have no throttle response at all. The motor continues it's pulsing revs but I can't get the throttle to move the needle jet. My thoughts initially were that since the needle is bottomed out as it is, it should idle and I can try to adjust the cable later to pull in the slack. The other weird thing though is that when I do attempt to pull in the slack, it seems like the thumb control only moves about 1/2 way through it's rotation before it stops. On my good running 230s the throttle response is through the whole range of rotation. I'm not sure why the one I'm working with now is bottoming out/stopping so quickly.
Could I have something screwed up in the carb? It seems to act the same way on both the original carb and the rebuilt one.
If pictures would help, I can certainly try to snap a couple and attach them.
Thanks again for the help and guidance, I do appreciate it!
That wouldn't really explain the pulsing though.
#7984
08-17-2009, 06:23 PM
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High pulsing rev update - still not fixed...
Thanks to everyone for sending along suggestions on this. I really thought I had it with the vacuum leak ideas. Here's where it's at right now:
I pulled all the pieces from the airbox to the cylinder. Cleaned all the plastic and rubber pieces up with soap & water and inspected for tears/rips/etc. The boot on the cylinder looked like it had failed and was leaking out the kickstarter side. I had another one in much better condition which I installed with a new O-ring. I buttoned it all back up nice and tight with the rebuilt carb back on.
I then attempted to adjust that throttle cable. Not sure what's up with this thing...With the throttle needle resting at its bottom-most position in the carb, I can only get the throttle to move about 1/2 way through it's rotation before it stops. It seems to be hitting the cap on top of the carb. It's got a very narrow range of motion and I really am not sure why.
Once I got rid of the slack in the throttle, I kicked the thing over and it immediately started doing the same thing it was doing. It seriously sounds like I'm laying on the throttle as it starts and then I continue to jam it over an over. It's got to be near 3/4 throttle easy.
I then buried the idle screw and the slow speed (?) screw on the carb. Kicked it over again and got the same result. They have no impact on performance. Also, it appears that the throttle has no discernable impact either. I tried to rev it to see if anything changed it nothing happened. It seems to be getting high levels of gas/air mixture in a pulsing fashion regardless of the carb setting and throttle action.
I'm 99% certain there's no leaks from the airbox to the cylinder. Could it be leaking from somewhere else? Nothing is leaking from the head at all that I can tell. No oil, smoke, fumes, etc. There was a little initially from the exhaust but I attributed that to the new gasket in there. Plus, I gave the bolts an 1/4 turn and it went away.
What am I missing here?
Could the wiring have any impact on this? The wiring on this machine is a MESS. If there's any chance that this could impact it, it'll definitely be the next place I look. The problem is, as this thing passed through peoples hands, they removed the light and re-wired whatever they could to keep it running. There's a ton of wires just dangling out there. The manual makes it sound like you really need the light housing to have everything terminate - am I reading that right?
I hope this helps give a few more clues for some of you experts to point me in another direction. It's frustrating because it ran fine but crazy smokey before I started messing with it to 'fix' it. It sucks when you try to make it right and end up screwing it up...
Thanks for any help~
#7985
08-17-2009, 07:14 PM
im not an expert...but the throttle sounds like the problem to me... it sounds like the throttle valve (#4 in the pic below) might be in backwards or sideways whatever you want to call it...it will only go in the right way, one way. if i remember right...there is a channel that goes all the way down one side that should go toward the kickstart side of the carb.
#7986
08-17-2009, 07:23 PM
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I think I might be a big idiot...
im not an expert...but the throttle sounds like the problem to me... it sounds like the throttle valve (#4 in the pic below) might be in backwards or sideways whatever you want to call it...it will only go in the right way, one way. if i remember right...there is a channel that goes all the way down one side that should go toward the kickstart side of the carb.
Apparently I'm no expert either! This whole time I've been putting that stupid thing in with side with the indent bumping up against the brass guide in the carb! No wonder why the thing is 'revving' up like it is - the throttle is 3/4 open all the time...
I just got the kids to bed and can't go out and kick it over right now but I'll do flip this around tomorrow when I get home from work and try again. I feel like an idiot...
Thanks for pointing this out, though. It's exactly what I needed!
I'll give an update tomorrow and hopefully confirm that I'm an idiot.
Take care~
#7987
08-17-2009, 08:38 PM
#7988
08-17-2009, 09:11 PM
#7989
08-17-2009, 09:17 PM
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You should check out the website in my sig, you'll be proud!
