Hi Folks!

Excellent resource here and at the Vault. Thank you all for putting in so much time and providing info on these machines. It's very helpful but I'm still stumped - hoping somebody can give me some guidance...

I've got 3 of these old rigs ('85's and '86). One used for parts with a completely blown motor and two running. Well, one now semi-running.

I redid the top end on one that was smoking pretty good. 67mm Wiseco, new rings, gaskets, etc. I also rebuilt a carb w/a Moose rebuild kit. I adjusted it per the specs in the Clymer manual.

This is my first time doing either of these procedures.

I finished up the top end this morning, buttoned up the necessary pieces to try and kick it over, and got it to fire up. It runs, but it acts like I'm cranking the throttle over and over from about 1/4 throttle to 1/2 throttle. It continues to rev and rev.
I initially thought it was due to the carb rebuild. I tried adjusting to no avail. I then put the OLD carb back on (which hasn't been tampered) with and got the same result.

Any suggestions as to what may be the cause and where I should look?

I'm pretty sure the timing is dialed in as per the Clymer manual, but would that even affect the idle/throttle response? I thought timing only affected the actual functioning of the internals and since it does run, I figure it's good. Am I wrong?

My throttle cable is a little tweaked - seems to be supremely stretched or something, but I tested the quad ensuring the needle jet was in its fully seated position.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance~

 

55 sounds about right for stock.

and mine also does a little over 60 now, but with 13/41 gearing.

 

welcome to the forum!

sounds to me like youve got a big ol air leak somewhere. id start by checking the carb boot for cracks.

 

I agree with lt230sman check the intake boot there might be a small crack
in the rubber or maybe the boot isn't on tight enough. Also you might check your valve adjustment that probably is not it but its something too check.

My brother has an 87 lt230E that we're gonna be fixing soon. Took it for a ride and it just didnt run right at all, it wouldn't idle and it didnt have the power it used too. took it apart and found out that the exhaust rocker arm pad was almost paper thin and the intake one was not much better! The cam's junk as well. So this repair going too cost alot.

Also check what condition your spark plug's in. You might be able too tell from that if your bikes running too lean.

 

Hey lt230sman did you ever get that crack in your engine fixed haven't been on here in awhile. I see that you have 13/41 gearing ,do you like it?

 

hey guys i was taking off my cluctch cable and this came up when i was take my cable off and now it easy to haul it up and down is it suppose to be this easy or is it something to worry about?

 

Yeah dont worry about it mine does it too, it only moves up easily a little right?

 

no it comes the whole way out

 

Thanks for the direction on this. Here's what I found:

I went through and inspected all the boot connections, re-tightened and checked to make sure that everything at least looked like it was all sealed up. I had the original, non rebuilt carb on it that was on it and functioning fine prior to the top end rebuild I did.

I kicked it over again and got the same result. Still getting that high pulsing idle. It literally sounds like I'm just sitting on it and cranking the throttle over and over again.

I pulled everything off from the airbox to the boot on the head. I can't get that damned thing off! I've got two cylinder heads with the boot still attached and I just can't seem to get them off. I'm hoping (guessing) that this boot is in good shape.
I cleaned all the other rubber and plastic pieces thoroughly with soap and water so they pretty much look brand new. As best as I can tell, without using a vacuum gauge, it seems like the pieces seal up tight. There doesn't appear to be a gaping leak anywhere.

Are there any other places either on the carb or the motor itself where I should be looking? The motor revs up like made and I let it go for a short while to see if I had any obvious leaks or anything - nothing showed itself.

I'm relatively mechanically inclined and have enough tools to follow just about everything in the Clymer manual, but this one is confusing me. But again, this is the first time I've done either of these procedures.

Could it have something to do with this?
For some reason, the throttle cable seems a little messed up. I'm using one that was on another 230s I had that was functioning fine previously. When I have it on this one, there's about 3/4 of an inch of play in the cable. When I spin the cap onto the top of the carb,I can pull that end of the cable up about 3/4". I have to make sure the metal end of the throttle cable is firmly place into the top of the carb. The problem is, when it's like this, I have no throttle response at all. The motor continues it's pulsing revs but I can't get the throttle to move the needle jet. My thoughts initially were that since the needle is bottomed out as it is, it should idle and I can try to adjust the cable later to pull in the slack. The other weird thing though is that when I do attempt to pull in the slack, it seems like the thumb control only moves about 1/2 way through it's rotation before it stops. On my good running 230s the throttle response is through the whole range of rotation. I'm not sure why the one I'm working with now is bottoming out/stopping so quickly.
Could I have something screwed up in the carb? It seems to act the same way on both the original carb and the rebuilt one.

If pictures would help, I can certainly try to snap a couple and attach them.

Thanks again for the help and guidance, I do appreciate it!

 

There was only one wire coming from the neutral sensor.

As a total fluke, I put it back on and tried one last time before doing some major wiring surgery to make the start button short the solenoid. Green neutral light comes on, cranks right over. Now there is an easily audible "click" from the starter relay/solenoid next to the battery when you press the start button, there never was before. I had removed it, smacked it around a bit, cleaned it's mounts and re-installed. Now the neutral light/starter work fine again. However the heel reverse lever is funky now. It will shut off the green neutral light, but doesn't turn on the red reverse. I could care less about that, but an odd side effect. It used to work fine.