dont valve seals come in the top end gasket kit? they did in mine at least. If your going to be in there you probably should replace the piston as well. It doesnt cost that much for a wiseco kit on ebay. When i pulled mine out it had cracks in the sides. Hand your exhaust upside down for a while and take the baffles out and clean the oil thats left over in there, otherwise when you start it back up it will smoke until it all burns out.

 

yeah the seals might come in the top end kit but not always. i've gotten screwed a couple of times by not getting the valve seals. and i would be careful on what piston i would get. a stock bottom end really can't handle a high compression piston. Vince ,the guy i talk to on all my builds, has recommended several times bottom end a top end should get built up at the same time. once those two are done a better cam is usaully next in line. but i would get a new oil pump just in case the factory one craps out and it most likely will. i watched my friend sink over 2 grand in his motor only to have the oil pump crap out and fry the top and bottom end.

 

i just want to get this thing up and running, piston rings and valve seals if theyre needed, otherwise its going back together and time to play again, dont want to build it up or do much to it, slapping on a pipe and better airfilter setup and riding it!!

 

I bought one of these new in 1986!



I don't remember the brand, but it got a better exhaust, bigger carb, (Twist Throttle) upgraded clutch and 25" Wolly Bogger tires!! I miss it, but its been gone a long time, sold about 1989 or 90.

These days I ride a '07 Sportsman 700. It's got allot more power, but I run it a lot slower.

CW

 

so the clymers book shows the whole head being dissassembled, however all i want to do is get to the piston to change the bad oiling rings, can i remove the head as a whole or do i need to take everything apart piece by piece?

 

You need to remove the valve cover to access the other head nuts. Then you can remove the head and then pull the cylinder.

 

Hey guys, just thought I'd drop in and let you all know that I finally got around to parting out that black 230 that never did run right. I have some of the smaller items on eBay. Bigger items are in the Twin Cities MN area if you're interested.

The Vault has the eBay link:

https://sites.google.com/site/suzuki...parts-for-sale

 

anybody who has put new rear axel bearings, how hard was it to do? or if anyone has taken it to a shop to have done, what did it cost?

just curious cause mine are going out.

 

Doing axle bearings dont suck as bad as swing arm bearing. you dont need to take it to a garage. just be prepared for a fight. if they are the originals or really old they will almost always be siezed. here is an installation tip and it works for all bearings going into a metal housing. While the old bearings are being taken out, put the new bearings in your freezer, and when you get the old ones out warm up the part ,or in your case the axle carrier, and then install the bearings from the freezer into your axle carrier.

this makes installation easier and when the parts equalize in temp they are better fitted and will not come back out. hope this helps.

 

i took mine out with a hammer punch and torches, but be careful the carrier is cast aluminum and will burn easily, and what trailrider said will save you alot of cursing and swearing when installing the new ones, good luck dude