Finally picked this project back up, brought the jug to be honed today by the best in the whole area. The guru told me it was a $500 hone tool, one of the best they make, and that the sleeve was installed inside another sleeve and that it is cast iron which does not last as long as nickel but can be bored without plating. One of the ports is slightly rounded on the edges, and it was so worn around the intake port that the hone did not even touch but hey it came off a good running motor so I will have it bored next time. Also there is quite the groove on the port bridges from the ring meet but once again it came off a good running motor. I bought new rings for the piston he said that I would be fine replacing both the top and bottom because the ring ridge is not bad enough to destroy a new top ring. Also come to find out that "uneven" sleeve wear was just the head gasket still stuck on there and it was not cut perfectly so the top edge is smooth.








This is my gross rear end that I am going to fix the right way this time because I'm sick of the grease everywhere. I think the shock is filled with oil because I hear a squish noise when I press down on the grab bar so I bought a Moose head seal.






The rear axle carrier is so grimy, I kind of have a feeling there is no dust/oil seals in there AT ALL because I see metal when I think I should only be seeing rubber. Without the brake components and chain the rear axle with tires spins for 1-2 minutes when suspended off the ground so the bearings must be good.

 

Looks like its going good for you, I'm going to be buying rings for my lt250s today and then I'm going to get a hone job done in the next week or so. What type of hone did he use, i'm assuming it wasn't a ball hone, which looks like a bunch of stones attached to wires, since it was that expensive. Where did you go to get the hone done, I need to get mine honed and the place that does them in my town only has a ball hone.

 

Oh and the rounding at the edges of the port shouldn't matter as they normally do that so that the rings don't hit the edge and break when when you get a bore done on a 2 stroke.

 

I went to Powerhouse Performance on West Broadway, Gardner MA. It was a 2 stone tool attached to a drill with a long extension and u-joint. Every few rotations he kept retightening it with a cog spared ring, if your close enough I would recommend visiting him he does the best hone jobs in central MA, every other shop brings their jugs to him. I'm not sure how well the reed spacer is going to fit in an 85/86 but I am ordering one. I'm picking up a new swinger and carrier this weekend for an 87+ so I will probably cut my 85/86 spares up for bar stock to use on extending the 87+ swinger eventually.

I also found out I need a special tool to remove the shock cylinder head, this is turning out to be more work then I thought but it will be worth it. ALSO I am thinking about buying a dremel polishing head kit to polish the port tunnels to a mirror finish.

 

I NEED TO KNOW IF AN 85/86 AXLE WILL FIT IN AN 87-90 CARRIER!? I know there are problems doing it reversed but what difference does the amount of splines make with the fitment?

 

I think this should answer your question under post number 3
http://forums.atvconnection.com/suzu...t230-axle.html

It looks like the only difference is the number of splines for the hubs, so you would need new hubs it looks like, dont quote me, but thats what it soulds like from that thread.

 

But if I have the 85/86 hubs that came with the axle I don't see why it would not fit in the 87-90 carrier. I found a whole flat swinger for $120 including chain tensioner, bearings, etc. with just a small crack I will have to weld. I wonder if the 26 spline hubs stay tighter than the 24s because no matter what I do I can never get my nuts to stay they move to the max pin alignment, and I'm just shy of going to the next hole. Maybe lock washers or impact them onto the next hole.

 

So I pulled the oil/dust seals from the rear carrier, and they have this flange outward plus a ridge along the inside. Are both these suppose to be here?? Are these bad enough to cause grease hold failure??





Then I have the sprocket hub (first one) and my spare that was in the parts bin (second) Are these suppose to have rings in them like the seals do? I'm guessing a bearing ball ate this rear end up??





Also the edge on the brake disc hub, which I think is non removable from the axle? It does not look nearly as bad as the sprocket hubs but, bad enough to cause grease hold failures??

 

So... freakin Craigslist almost got me killed once again, I read an ad that was something like lt250r/trx250r/banshee/warrior/etc part out. As I arrive closer to the address I get deeper and deeper into a ghetto, and lewered to a building with rows of bay doors but the door I went to went down on the inside under the building into the basement unlike all the others it was something like right out of a Fast & Furious movie haha tons of pit-bull dogs everywhere and in front of my own eyes rows, and rows, and rows of old rare quads I'm talking everything you can imagine and most with chrome and after market parts some were on jack stands all parted out. I have never seen so many quadzilla's and trx250r's in the same room, even online! ANYWAY I made it out alive with a 1989 swinger, carrier, and the disc/caliper torque link bar I did not have all for $140

It's real clean too here it is next to mine:







It has brand new bearings in it already he said, and looks like new oil/dust seals too!



Now, I willingly bought it knowing there was a crack which is in a different place then my original swinger. Do you think this is going to be a harder weld to keep strong because it kind of looks like that loop is under spring type tension already and I do not think it can be welded from the inside yet I do not have any size restraints for the top weld so it can be piled up. I live near a welding shop that does aluminum so I am going there this week to see what can be done:





The only thing I did not realize until I got home was that the other side has a bearing setup that is entirely frozen and looks wallowed out on the top right corner. I plan on getting all new bearings and spacers anyway, but hopefully the impact that cracked the other side did not pancake this side. But the wallowing on the top right makes me think it was ridden with the other side cracked putting a lot of pressure on this side:



When I got home some new parts had come in

^complete engine gasket set with oil seals, rear shock cylinder head, wiseco rings, power reeds, another new spark plug, and a much needed silencer wash plug.


Also got some new kickass front tires:

 

That crack is pretty bad. I would beef it up good. It would probably be good to take a pair of vise grips and close the crack as close as possible before you weld it so the inside is as close as stock as possible.