How does the cart move? Lol joys of working at a steel recycling yard, anything and everything is available in small quantities I swear.... Lol. But the cart looks good! You use mig or wire feed? I have to switch to gas but too lazy to go buy a tank and regulators, plus I still have 4 brand new spools of .030 np211 wire plus a little under half a pound in my welder, stocked up because was building a snow blade for the gf dads truck and turned out I didn't need that muchwire even though I ripped through 3 spools but you can drive over the thing with a highway tractor and never break the welds lol

 

ok well the fellow only has the lowers and spindles and hubs, he offered everything and shocks for 100 plus shipping to Canada but I'm only going to take the shocks because he's lacking the uppers, ill keep you guys posted though which ever way I go with widening the ol girl.

 

I did all of that with flux core, but have since switched to mig.

In the picture, there's an electric motor that's driven by two 12v batteries. Since that picture I've added another 12V battery for a total of 36V. I also made a tray for the batteries to sit in, right over the rear axle. It'll move about 20mph.

Unfortunately, I had to buy all of that metal new, so it wasn't cheap to build. Our local scrapyard NEVER has any tubing in stock. It's all odd shape pieces that aren't really suitable for using on projects like this. My guess is that whenever tubing comes in, it gets sold real quick. If I were to do it again, I would find an old abandoned kart and use that as a starting point.

 

sorry it took so long to get back but no i meant 250s a arms thats what i had on my machine till yesterday they totally gave out comein off a large jump and i wiped bad lost a rim a tire a head pipe front plastic and both upper a arms ya no fun i got a arms off of ebay from a girl she has tons of 230s stuff and is very reasonable only paid 12 bucks for both upper a arms sweet!!! and now about the tires i can get they are just aftermarket rims and tires but i found alot of tires that are bolt ons to stock hubs and the rear 4\130 is a pain to find but fronts thats different easy if you switch your hubs from a blaster or a something for tires i can get any size that is wanted in three different price ranges and for a set of 4 in the stock sizes for the 230 my best price is 225 plus shipping and the top of the line stuff is more but thats not bad for all new rubber at 225 and im sure there cheaper out there bu good luck findting it lol i also found a sweet deal on upper end kits that piston rings and all the gaskets for 100 plus shipping and one other thing if you plan on boring your engine 20 over dont go 40 it is an amazing difference i was 20 over and now am 40 and its alot better 3rd gear if i punch it ill be flat on my back on the ground never could have done that before only second would third was a dog now im thinking of adding a tooth on my front sprocket to get som more top end speed but not sure yet if anyone know a way to add an efi to one of these things let me know just a thought but could be good cause then i could tune it to the egnition system and boost torque while ruunning wide open insteed of relying on the main to supply my air fuel mix

 

Those control arms are a steal at 12 for upper and lower wow! For tires I just need fronts mine are fubered, brought the girl home and good thing brought a hand pump with me lol every couple miles had to pump them up but when I got home added slime tire sealant and rode for a few hours last night without issue but still have to replace the fronts, I have a couple of questions though I replaced the rear brake pads but they were so tight I had to tap on with a hammer, I'm guessing this isn't normal for a atv? I know on vehicles it definitely is not suppose to be that tight, also is the piston suppose to sit flush with the caliber when fully retracted? Because when all bolted back together there is a huge amount of drag on them..... Also it will idle high but if in gear and flutter the clutch off slightly then back fully on the clutch it'll idle down and sometimes stay there and others come back up? Choke was off as well to rule that out. Other than that picked it up at buds lastnight drive hour and half roughly by quad home, oh also I have no tail and no headlights when looking at the schematics in the book the electrical appears to be powered off one source?

 

Also! Forgot I honestly don't know if this quad was bored out but went to do my first cat walk in like 15 years.... Mistake! Lol that didn't turn out as planned. But did some practising last night and 2nd gear definitely the choice for cat walks man lightly pop the front with your weight once in the sweet spot and wow stands up great, now balance is the next step lol. How did you find using the 250r control arms? Btw! Rims.. Itp makes a I think 3+5.5 can't remember the back spacing, so looking at the widening situation thinking get those for back and widen front 4 inch and should be ok in that department, but really would like a +2 swinger. Was riding some hills and steep ditchs and want feeling overall confident with a really short machine

 

Is the parking brake still attached? That needs to be manually adjusted all the way out if it is. The piston should sit flush, but I have seen them hang up if the parking brake hasn't been attended to.

The high idle shows you may have a slight leak in the intake or even the head gasket or header.

As for the hillclimbs, my 230 was always a billy goat. Definitely went some places a 230 had no business being, lol. Anyway, you need to really get up on the front of the seat for hillclimbs. If it is real steep you may need to get off the seat and actualy stand with your weight up over the bars. Sounds counterintuitive right? It actually helps to have a little wheel spin on hills and weighting the nose keeps it on the ground and tracking as it should be.

 

the hill climb wasn't an issue but buddys son had a good laugh, rolled backwardd and sccidently released the clutch lol and of course what happens? Move the kick start out and boot it lol. But ill have to spray around the boots and gaskets with some red bull for diesel engines. Either and test it, I figured carb may need a cleaning since its probably never been cleaned since 85, um the parking brake thing how would I adjust it? I assume its the nut closest to the caliper needs to be held sturdy and adjusted with a flat head screw driver?