03 LT-A50 top end rebuilt wont run
#1
03 LT-A50 top end rebuilt wont run
I am having trouble getting this thing to run aftet i installed a parts ace top end rebuild kit. The only luck i had was to spray starting fluid directly into the spark plug hole and it ran for 4 seconds without the exhaust manifold connected or the air filter. Seems like lack of air or too rich. Now the one thing that is different with this cylinder is there is no port to hook my petcock vacuum to the cylinder.. i figured the petcock shouldnt matter if i have fuel flowing to the carb on the prime position. Does this thing have to run off the petcock in the on position and functioning or something? Is it flooding out on prime? Shouldnt the carb float bowl be metering that? I set float bowl to manual specs...
#3
#4
If it runs on SF you're almost there...I like the above suggestions...just confirm gas flow to the carb and you should be good-to-go. If the carb bowl is full and plug still dry after cranking then you may have an intake issue (no pulse to draw the air/fuel into the cylinder)...easy to test pulse...just cover air side of carb with fingers/hand...you should feel the "tug" when you crank it over...
If bowl is full & pulse is strong, you then have a clogged jet(s)...
If bowl is full & pulse is strong, you then have a clogged jet(s)...
#5
If it runs on SF you're almost there...I like the above suggestions...just confirm gas flow to the carb and you should be good-to-go. If the carb bowl is full and plug still dry after cranking then you may have an intake issue (no pulse to draw the air/fuel into the cylinder)...easy to test pulse...just cover air side of carb with fingers/hand...you should feel the "tug" when you crank it over...
If bowl is full & pulse is strong, you then have a clogged jet(s)...
If bowl is full & pulse is strong, you then have a clogged jet(s)...
#6
After a complete rebuild of my sons 50 I noticed little difference in the compression from pulling on the recoil. Shortly after the rebuild I removed the head again and milled down the head with my belt sander. I really have no idea what the final compression numbers are, no before and after numbers to compare. Don't know, don't care. I'm sure I will get slammed for this on the forums but I am 100% sure the motor runs better, has a noticeable increase from idle to midrange and is more responsive across the entire range. It stars better too. I also noticed the pull starter have more resistance when the piston is approaching TDC. This surprised me, it was very noticeable. I believe the stock comp is very low, something like 7.5:1 or 8. I would be happy if the backyard head trimming bumped it to 9 or 10:1. I always use non ethanol fuel and I believe its 91 oct so I feel safe on pump gas @ 10:1. May want to give that a try for a free 20 minute upgrade. For the petcock, I think I remember reading somewhere the blaster petcock bolts right up and is on/of/res too. It may have been a banshee, I don't remember, it was a few years ago when I was considering changing it. Probably never will, I run it on prime with no issues, the motor gets used at least once a week. I hope this helps, good luck.
#7
100psi seems a little low for a newly overhauled engine, but I think it should fire up on that. Are you sure the float is working, I have had an LT50 that didn't get enough fuel because the float needle didn't open enough, and one that didn't get fuel because the gasket was catching on the float.
I believe a blown crankcase seal can reduce inlet suction, but have never needed to fit one myself.
I believe a blown crankcase seal can reduce inlet suction, but have never needed to fit one myself.
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#8
100psi seems a little low for a newly overhauled engine, but I think it should fire up on that. Are you sure the float is working, I have had an LT50 that didn't get enough fuel because the float needle didn't open enough, and one that didn't get fuel because the gasket was catching on the float.
I believe a blown crankcase seal can reduce inlet suction, but have never needed to fit one myself.
I believe a blown crankcase seal can reduce inlet suction, but have never needed to fit one myself.
#9
After a complete rebuild of my sons 50 I noticed little difference in the compression from pulling on the recoil. Shortly after the rebuild I removed the head again and milled down the head with my belt sander. I really have no idea what the final compression numbers are, no before and after numbers to compare. Don't know, don't care. I'm sure I will get slammed for this on the forums but I am 100% sure the motor runs better, has a noticeable increase from idle to midrange and is more responsive across the entire range. It stars better too. I also noticed the pull starter have more resistance when the piston is approaching TDC. This surprised me, it was very noticeable. I believe the stock comp is very low, something like 7.5:1 or 8. I would be happy if the backyard head trimming bumped it to 9 or 10:1. I always use non ethanol fuel and I believe its 91 oct so I feel safe on pump gas @ 10:1. May want to give that a try for a free 20 minute upgrade. For the petcock, I think I remember reading somewhere the blaster petcock bolts right up and is on/of/res too. It may have been a banshee, I don't remember, it was a few years ago when I was considering changing it. Probably never will, I run it on prime with no issues, the motor gets used at least once a week. I hope this helps, good luck.